Thread: why different oil for U.S. and Europe? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

That 2.5 NA 5 cylinder will be fine on just about any modern oil.

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR Both GC and M1 0W40 are in Mercedes Benz 229.5 list for newer engines. But M1 0W40 is approved to be used in AMG engines and GC is not, based on this I would say that M1 0W40 is suitable for your engine and it can be bought at WM for $22 5-qt jug (about $4.40/qt). I just came back from a local WM and saw that they have plenty M1 0W40 in both quart bottles and 5-qt...

most quality oils will be more than adequate for your car. The only area i find that most of them fall down is protection under high temps and high rpms - not a typical situation for a jetta 5-cyl. Unless you race it. Then you want somethign that is ACEA A3 rated and does not have a reputation for thinning down with use. You will find most oils do nto meet ACEA A3 - they meet A1 and A5, which ...

It is weaker than your 300V 5W40~ Originally Posted By: d00df00d Originally Posted By: johnbottilaw Originally Posted By: WGermany What is wrong with the Castrol oil that's made for BMW engines ? Have you seen the analysis? It is sinfully weak! I find it hard to believe that an oil chosen by BMW M to protect their undersquare >100 hp/L engine (the S54) is that weak.

That doesn't make it "sinfully" weak. Besides, what is meant by "weak" anyway? TWS might not be able to take as much punishment as 300V, but it'll run much longer OCIs.

Hhhhmm, interesting debate about Castrol Magnatec here. I used to use Magnatec 10W-40 on my Turbo Nissan Silvia S14 from 1997 (the year that I bought the car brand new) till about 2002. Changed the oil every 5th kilometers (I'm from the Philippines BTW). I stopped using the oil when I changed my valve cover gasket and my mechanic told me that my engine parts were so black with sludge it looked ...

I'm surprised the Magnatec sludged up your engine with 5000km OCIs. How many km did you do in total when your mechanic changed your valve cover? SR20DETs are not a 'clean running' engine and should run a full synthetic whenever possible. I use Motul 300V in mine. I've used Magnatec in ordinary 4 cyl passenger cars which have remained spotless with 10k OCIs. I don't mind Magnatec - I just wished ...

Its is for highly stressed ( high performance) engines. As correctly noted it requires an HTHS > 3.5 and it de-emphasizes fuel economy. So if you are more interested in engine protection than fuel economy, pick A3/B3/B4 rated oils. Remember that that most governments are pushing oils that save fuel, regardless of what damage they do to your motor. Ditto long ddrain intervals. This is for ...

.. is to make sure that the car is fully warmed up for at least 15 minutes before you shut it down for the winter. This way moisture and by-products will have been evaporated off by the engine heat. Old oil is fine. As logn as it is oil, dry, non-contaminated oil Just Me

Id go longer than 15 minutes... that is long enough for all the junk to load into the oil, without flashing off. Id go longer - 30 or 40 miles.