Thread: r6 manual cam chain tensioner..says to block off oil supply to it?

on my bike (cbr600rr), that hole was blocked off by the gasket that came with the APE tensioner. dunno if your's is the same. also, i found that setting the chain as loose as they recommended (1/4-1/3" if i remember correctly?) made a big racket and i ended up adjusting it by sound. basically, just warm the bike up and turn it in just enough to where it stops sounding like marbles rattling in ...

Thanks, as you said im betting the new gasket will block off the hole as that is what i saw on a honda forum from a google search i did. Also, everyone appears to say turn 1/4 more once finger tight but the instructions acutally indicate go back a 1/4 turn once you feel the stuff make contact. I bet many that DIY make em way to tight..

^ yes, that one dude "tunersricebowl" has complained that EVERY single engine he's built with a manual CCT on it- the guides and stuff were worn because the person made it too tight. if you do a search on manual CCT's on here you'll see... that's why i say leave it on the loose side. i was just sharing my experience (which was that what they recommended for slack was way too much slack ...

The APE cct rep told Street&Comp (thanks Strgt) to try a spot of silicone in the hole and let it dry good, then put the gasket and cct on. No way am i taking the motor apart to plug the hole.

^ right on.

Get it as tight as you can using your fingers while turning the engine over. Just keep tightening and turning until you can't tighten it any more. Back off adjuster 1/4 turn. Using two wrenches, hold the adjuster part in place with one wrench and use the other wrench to tighten the lock nut.

^ uhhh... no. you do not want to tighten until you can't tighten anymore.

this is the "grey area".. like, whose fingers we talking about when we talk about "finger tight", gonna go with the "reasonably finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn" approach. I have one on the SB motor and holding on to it and reving the motor it will turn in a bit on when there is slack on decel or rev up (can't remember). But i likely had it a shade tighter than it needed to be.

On my 250 and 450 singles, I adjust my APE till I cannot rock the cam sprocket. Basically just taking the slack out. JMO Tdub

remember the tensioner is on the slack side. When adjusting with the motor off, rotate the crank forward first....this will get you closer (a tad tighter) to where you need to be at "finger tight".