Thread: mo rod mini 14

well the part is ordered from brownell's. it is a EGW part so *shrugs* ill let everyone know how it turns out when it comes in and i have time to run my frame through the mill!

The major reason for the '98's internal collar is that it avoids making the extractor cut in the barrel, and thus elminates the need for witness marks. That meant the barrel could be fitted easily and then the sights mounted using the receiver as a reference point. The disadvantage was that spare barrels were issued without sights and field shops had to install them. With a setup like the M1903 Springfield, the extractor cut had to...

I'd second the "dirty chamber" guess, if you use up a lot of energy pulling brass out of a sticky chamber your bolt might not have the energy to cycle fully. Good cleaning and lubrication might do the trick, can even check the gun with a drop of oil on the cartridges first to see if it makes a difference.

These are all things that I have ran into when in the gun business. Customers would bring in there grandpapys Mauser and learn that the rife that saved a life, is now a good door stopper. do a mauser right and you will have a shooter. Ed

Sir; Do not put a ramped barrel in a single-stack 1911. You'll have feeding problems. I use a "plunge mill" of ramp diameter and cut it clear out. Then I insert a piece of drill rod, secure it with a pin (really not necessary) and mill the top off and shape it to standard feed ramp dimensions - works forever! Harry B.

Sounds like you were doing something wrong at the loading bench, Bubba.... -tINY

Sounds to me like someone got carried away with the polishing compound. I ahve owned several 1893, 1895, and 1898 Mausers from DWM, Mauserwerke, Loewe, and never seen any that had white paint or filler in the lettering. BTW, leaving actions "in the white" (ie unblued) was a common practice on firearms many years ago. Carburized actions do not take bluing very well.

I used both the scraping type tool and a rotating sanding drum on a Foredom tool, the latter being faster and giving good control. You just need the right drum size. I bought a set at a Sear's hardware. The right size scraping tool will also work fine, and, working a bit slower, gives the highest degree of control.

I voted for "Selling Some Parts". My reason behind that are because any time a manufacturer sells a piece, part, or doo-dad it's WAY more expensive than what Brownells would sells it for. Ever buy Beretta parts from Beretta? They're 20+% cheaper now that Brownells became primary distributor. So, I opine that manuf's ought to use places that sell and re-sell items at fair market value.

BB, I lived in CC when we built the then new CC Pistol & Rifle Club around 1970. Was Secretary of the club for several years before my work relocated me to Houston. I left lots of bullets in the rifle and pistol berms when I moved away in Jan '75. Was a great place to shoot if you didn't mind the ever present wind.