Thread: installed clutch...how hard to move lever ?
Started 1 month ago by kwb210
i installed the clutch. I believe I followed the instructions(!). Should I be able to move the clutch lever by my hands? It feels so stiff. I removed it and checked all the pieces, the cup the throw out bearing, all nicely greased, for movement. they all felt good. Install the arm and it simply will not move forward and I don't want to force it. the transmission slid onto the splines like ...
You've already received some good advice. Here's my perspective. I'm just coming back to airheads after some time on other models, mostly K75's and K100's. I'm buying a 1980 R100 that's had an aftermarket cafe' fairing installed and been somewhat restored.....high quality paint job.....black with pinstripes...has bags in good condition......chromed bag mounts and Reynolds rack ...
electric??
I bought a new omega system from Rick the stator is to big to fit the brush holder?
and my old brush holder does not have the Y terminal that he calls for???
I,m at witts end ?
I,ll call him Monday has any one run into this kind of brush holder??
Any ideas would be helpful
HELP
eddie...
You have the wrong stator housing. As Rick describes very well on his website, you need a larger housing with a W terminal. The /5 housing did not have that.
"To mount the Omega on a /5, a 1974 through 1995 stator housing, BMW part #12311243002, must be used. The original /5 brush holder assembly is exactly the same and fits the later housing."
From http://www.motoelekt.com...
Actually I always thought that was the only reason for the resistance in plug wires - to reduce broadcast transmission of the spark voltage spikes. Is there any other reason? I used solid copper on my /2, otherwise have used stock so as to not make noise on people's radios.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 44006
R100/7 ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmmalmberg
Actually I always thought that was the only reason for the resistance in plug wires - to reduce broadcast transmission of the spark voltage spikes. Is there any other reason? I used solid copper on my /2, otherwise have used stock so as to not make noise on people's radios....
Anyone have any tricks on getting the Driveshaft rubber boot onto the flange at the tranny? I spent a bunch time trying to do this . I've loosened the swingarm so it moves sideways, removed the battery box. Split my thumb nail to the quick.
thanks for any help, , Brian R65LS
Do you have one of those screwdrivers that has a 90 degree bend at each end? They're used to get to screws that are buried in tight places where a normal straight handled screwdriver won't work. Something like that would let you pin one side of the boot with one hand and use the other hand to hook the inside of the boot and pull it up and over.
Just a week ago had the Clutch cable break. So maybe that is a sign that all cables are ready to go.
I own the RT or a year, and have not change the cables. I guess it a trip to the dealer and get new cables. I going to sell this soon, as I got another 84 RT, and I was keeping one for when my son comes up. He rides a KLR, at home (his), and I seem to be the one who rides down to southern Ohio ...
Quote: Originally Posted by bmweuro Screw the top nut back on hand tight and beat the livie' n ----- out of it with a hammer and a piece of wood. One or two good hits it will come loose. I think that's what he has tried. I'm wondering if there was moisture in there and failed grease that could have allowed for a bond with rust. Just to be on the safe side, I can't see the lower end of the forks. I am assuming that the...
I don't know how it is on your late model Airhead, but my /7 had the original cable wherein the back of the board connector was a molded plug. The other end was three separate wires which one could almost figure out where they would go just based upon "memory" of the wires and how they had formed all those years. But when I pulled the molded plug off one time and found a bunch of corrosion, I decided to replace it with three...
Quote: Originally Posted by AntonLargiader For those who have no idea what he means, the link is to an old Butler & Smith catalog; one of many PDF files on John Lacko's website. http://www.beemergarage.com/ Oh no!!
Quote: Originally Posted by barryg The old grease in the bearing area has turned to a hardened like glue/adhesive and is holding all this together. The heat will melt it somewhat. It will let all this release and come apart. Both top and bottom bearings are stuck to the steering head. Rapping all this with a dead blow hammer and a 2x4 wood block should help get it to release. Interesting -- the old grease in my bearings also turned into what...
Quote: Originally Posted by yankeeone OK, I used the drill method of getting the gas cap off ,worked great, thou it looks like I'll need a new cap, rust! so my question is, what can I do to get better access to the inside of the tank, very rusty ! the little flap makes it very difficult to work, .I did a site search and saw people had luck with vinegar, also phosphoric acid,to clean. if I get it clean can I leave it with the finish that...
Go to any reputable tire manufacturer's website and you will find among many other things a fitment chart. You may not find every model of every make, but in a separate chart you will find tire sizes and allowable wheel sizes for that wheel size. Most Airheads have a 2.5" rear wheel. Metzeler for example recommends the 120/90-18 ME88 as the fitment for that bike/wheel. Looking at the tire itself discloses it is permitted for use on...
Thread profile page for "installed clutch...how hard to move lever ?" on http://www.bmwmoa.org.
This report page is a snippet summary view from a single thread "installed clutch...how hard to move lever ?", located on the Message Board at http://www.bmwmoa.org.
This thread profile page shows the thread statistics for: Total Authors, Total Thread Posts, and Thread Activity