Thread: What not to forget in building my 81 350?

chevybuldr. Go ahead and email me with the contact info and I'll give you and your shop a shout when the block is out and ready for some rework. I'm at nscp@pacbell.net . Jim P I'll try a few pics here:

Well if you do 680 to 580 to 5 then you pass right past out shop. We are off of 580 in Livermore at the first st exit. Look for a shop that is in house. There are alot out there and pretty much you get what you pay for. Everybody has a different way of doing things. I will be more then happy to help you with any questions you have.

Quote: Originally Posted by chevybuldr Full rollers wont fit under a stock rocker arm cover. If you bought stock pushrods then odds are they will not work with a full roller rockers. Look at roller tips. Also did your machinest install guide plates? If so then make sure you have hardened push rods. The Forged piston is going to be a bit more expensive then the Hypers. I agree on the quality control of the pistons. I have to dissagree with the...

I have not read anything mentioning freeze plugs. How about de-burring the inside of the block while dis-assembled. An '81 3/4 ton 4 bolt main will probably be a high nickel content block. Most likely with a nodular iron crank instead of a standard iron version. With 113,000 easy miles on it, it probably won't need bored. Just a good hone and new rings. I'll bet the crank is just fine too. Obviously you'll have it all...

Make sure you buy and use EOS or some other high quality break in supplement for your new cam and lifters ---IT IS A MUST If you do not have the oil pump I would stick with standard pressure and volume for your build consider a new oil pan - the old tin often is bent or warped and creates spots for leaks - ditto with the timing cover I would consider another brand of piston - speed pro has been going thru a great deal of quality control issues...

I didn't flush and clean the radiator, and the leak deterrent that a PO put in there came out during break in and made for some not so fun clean up.

First of all- welcome to the board. Second- That cam doesn't sound near stock. I'd bet you'll want more head for that lift and duration. Was it recommended by the grinder? Third- You may want to check out Sean Murphy Induction . He'll build your Q-jet to suit.

When you have the block machined ask them about grooving the lifter bores to allow direct oiling to the cam lobes. If they cannot do it, or cost is too high, consider getting a set of Crower CamSaver lifters. Either of these mods should help ensure a long and healthy life for that flat tappet cam if you use a quality oil with plenty of ZDDP. I agree the HV oil pump is not needed, but I don't think it will hurt either. So use it if you...

do you have a good book ?if not get one and read it.