Quote:
Originally Posted by Oceanwaterwaysbrent
Whats the matter with you? got sand in your vagina?
nope, just pointing out a poser so that beginners on this forum don't get misled by your stupidity
My girl friend is actually wanting to go to clipless as her big issue has been her feet slipping on the pedals, a VERY common issue with ladies as in general they tend to sit a lot more which leads to them bouncing their feet off on rough terrain.
Now that she is standing more and with the help of some new 510 Karvers, she's slipping much less but now is lusting after the clipless power
This is the all mountain thread by definition that means you haveto pedal. there is no question clipless is best.
Unless you have the tension set wrong then unclipping is instinctive and only 100th/s slower than just stepping off a flat.
Flats are great----for learning, doing tricks over jumps, trials and teeter toottering around on north shore skinnies as you cn move your feet around ...
Got my frame saturday and had to work all weekend, so I just finished building it up. Most of the parts are transplants from my Heckler that is down at the moment. I need to go get housing and cables tomorrow and then I'll be set. Props to Todd and Gabe at Evil for excellent service and communication, and Nate at Carolina Fatz for prepping the frame for me this morning.
Oh yeah ...
So I bought a Rize 4 used from a fellow in town. I love the bike, and I'm planning to shorten the stem. The stock stem is 110mm with a 6* rise. I was thinking about replacing it with a Thomson stem at 90mm. The Elite X4 only comes in 0* or 10*.
I can see how rise affects fit, but does it affect steering? Can I get the same fit as my 6* stem if I remove some of the headset spacers when...
Stem length greatly affects your steering sensitivity as well as your body position. Shorter stems are obviously going to position your weight further back, which is why you will see them predominantly on downhill oriented bikes. You wont have the feeling of being over your front wheel as much. And, for climbing purposes, shorter stems will make your front wheel a bit more difficult to track (...
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMH22
Should I get one? When going downhill hard my chain is banging around even when it is in the large ring. What one should I get? Thanks
1. check to see that you don't have too much chain.
2. tape up your chainstay with an old inner tube.
3. Blackspire Stinger. simple to install, cheap, ...
Quote: Originally Posted by carrot_top Actually, that manitou was OEM on the frame http://www.bikepedia.com/QUICKBIKE/B...+2.0&Type=bike and yeah mines got a lot of chips and scratches and what-not from rock strikes, but thats what happens when you upgrade to big knobby DH tires (ironically, i live in flat-ass Florida....far from any "real" hills) i got 2.70s on my parker i get lots of stone chips but really if your bike is...
Quote: Originally Posted by traffic002 LOL, I guess I have to read more of your posts to know when you are *more* serious than *usual*... Hey, if I can climb 2500' of vertical, then ride down switch backs and single tracks, then isn't that AM? I just shy away from big jumps and hucking off greater than 4' to flat. I do not recommend reading more of my posts than you have to but I am serious on this one for what its worth, I am...
dayum, I was surprised to see you re-pull the trigger on the marque but I hope it all works out & look fwd to your short- and long-term review. I thought the gen'l consensus was that using 2 rings up front (w/ any derailleur) was a big contributor the the problems, and that's why rontele got a hammerschmidt (which ended up not being a total solution either). ?
Quote: Originally Posted by FoShizzle I do not recommend reading more of my posts than you have to but I am serious on this one for what its worth, I am going with a 120mm fork, but on a 29er and similar angle to a Trans-Am or like bike I too climb, a lot, so I have to account for ups and downs as well bingo. while a good rider on a 5" FS bike will leave me in the dust no matter what, the whole point of AM hardtails is so you can ride...
Quote: Originally Posted by *n00b* Where i live in PA pretty muck all of my riding. well ya got that part right !! ex-pa resident (state college/pennstate area) anyways... i ride a YETI ASX and it does EVERYTHING WELL IMHO. i have to ride uphill/downhill/xc/urban yada yada yada to get to my riding area...... i have the FOX 5.0 shock w/ the CORRECT spring to set sag and use air pressure in the ITP valve to help w/ pedal bob (very little) solid...
Out of those three I picked TransAm, since Blue Pig was on backorder and with 456 I could not decide between Summer and regular editions and did not feel like I am wasting enough money on yet another bike. Should have bought titanium 456, but TransAm is fine. With a 120mm fork I would have probably went for 456 Summer for its slackness.
society geo on crc is whacky. Here is a screencap from ns when they had it on the site. http://community.webshots.com/photo/...92232901IlAwHC I said it before and maintain it's a good option. Really, 456, ragley, society, transam, they're all really good options, really similar, and you'll be stoked on any of them. The 456, society, and transam are super similar bikes. I'm not sure most riders would be able to tell which is...
Well, he isn't really into it, so I doubt he is going to be jumping 5' drops or anything. He wants to get one for his wife too. The first option is probably a better bike, but there is less travel and less of an AM bike.
some videos of the riding that we designed the Ragley's for - http://vimeo.com/user1508861/videos not high speed wide open. But steep steppy tech. And winching back up again. From some train-wreck thread on here, some guys proposed our frame had a slightly higher BB than some others which might make it less stable. I would counter that with our hugely slacker head angle, which makes it hilariously stable, but nice length rear stays which...
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