A neighbor of mine has an old M-head Bridgeport with USWD stamped on the table along with some numbers. He says it was a war dept machine. Anyhow it doesn't run due to a bad motor and he wants $200 for it with a SS phase converter.
The machine isn't rusty, scratched or dinged beyond what would look normal. And everything moves easily.
I'm sure the 1/2 hp m-head would be enough for ...
Originally Posted by ogesII
A neighbor of mine has an old M-head Bridgeport with USWD stamped on the table along with some numbers. He says it was a war dept machine. Anyhow it doesn't run due to a bad motor and he wants $200 for it with a SS...
Thanks jmelson,
Based on your comments and what I've been reading I think I will pass on it. $200 is just so tempting for getting into a mill but the J heads and R8s sound much better. It sounds like buying a machine that you can't hear run is risky. Especially if the M-heads are undersized.
I thought the USWD part gave it some nice character also. But I'd rather have a mill that ...
Originally Posted by ogesII
Thanks jmelson,
Based on your comments and what I've been reading I think I will pass on it. $200 is just so tempting for getting into a mill but the J heads and R8s sound much better. It sounds like buying a ...
Is there an easy way to tell what quill it has? Is it stamped somewhere? Or is there a dim I can take?
I guess if I could pick up a J-head for $200 it would be worthwhile. I'm not seeing much for working mills in the classifieds for less than $1500. Of course I have no idea what a j-head would end up costing me either.
Originally Posted by ogesII
Is there an easy way to tell what quill it has? Is it stamped somewhere? Or is there a dim I can take?
I guess if I could pick up a J-head for $200 it would be worthwhile. I'm not seeing much for working ...
Originally Posted by jmelson
<snip>
The "quill" is mated to the bore in the casting, and is not considered to be interchangeable. What you mean is the spindle taper.
<snip>
Ok, so is ...
Originally Posted by ogesII
Ok, so is the spindle taper interchangeable? Could I swap it to an R8 if it has something else?
Also, I'm not sure what will happen to it when I try an get the stuck collet out....
Originally Posted by jmelson
<snip>
But, most likely, with generous applications of a good penetrating oil and gentle tapping, it will
eventually come out. It seems a collet could never get as stuck as the end mill holder in my
mill. I ...
Originally Posted by ogesII
Jon thanks a ton for all the info. After applying penetrating oil and letting it soak in, I should loosen the draw bar a turn or two then I am free to pound? Or do I risk damage if I give more than light taps on ...
Originally Posted by jmelson
<snip>
Anyway, I'd be pretty careful with this pounding stuff, as you definitely CAN damage the spindle bearings. Other than cutting the collet out of the spindle, I'm not sure there is any better method.
I ...
Originally Posted by jmelson <snip> Hmmmm, I sure HOPE that B in the ser # doesn't mean B taper! Jon Nope, the 'B' is actually an '8' so it's M8226 a little degreasing did wonders for reading the numbers. The s/n on the knee is 2473 which looks like 1943 I got the machine home this morning. It only took 1 hour to move it. I got it home and immediately rigged up an old wash machine motor to it with a...
HAH! So it is still good! Well, a reversing switch will be a lot easier to find than an exact-fit motor. One problem I had was the stock motor was very weak running on a static phase converter, IE. single-phase running. I could stall it with my hand. It ran much better on a VFD. Oh boy! Do those pictures bring back memories, with that odd little "hat" on top of the motor. (Yes, I know, it is to keep things from falling or...
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