Thread: W211 DIY Brake Job - Page 7 - MBWorld.org Forums

Quote: Originally Posted by ambleZ06 We did. At first things were not working as you would expect when bleeding brakes. Then fluid finally started to come out of the bleed valve. Right now the car is running normally as expected. I think that it may have just been alot of air in the system, that finally worked its way back to the brake fluid reservoir. Are you supposed to bleed the brakes with the SBC hooked up, or unhooked? We were bleeding...

awesome well if i ever need to do something else to my benz ull be the first ones to hit u up. yeah been stationed there since 2004 and will be till 2013, just changed jobs from Security Forces (MP) to Aerial Gunner on helicopters!!!!!

does anyone know how to replace the rotors as well? I remember last time when I replaced my pads I couldn't even get the rotors to wiggle a bit.

Quote: Originally Posted by vettdvr Without the big startrek computer and Scotty you normally would bleed the brakes with a pressure bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder with key and ignition both off. That is how we bleed them, I guess we did not do it enough. My friend said that fluid had started to come out of the bleed valve. Oddly, I drove the car to work and back today (40+ miles), and no errors. I parked the car in the driveway...

Thanks for the help. I locked up the car to disable the SBC. Fronts were easy, but had trouble with the first rear caliper. Finally ended up with inserting a used pad and stepping on the brake to seat the new pads. Relocked the car and it worked. Had tire shop rotate tires (free) to break sticking wheels loose Use hanger tool for tires in tool kit Bought 18mm Box end for the caliper bolts (no clearance) use hammer Use C clamp to compress...

Do a simple continuity test on the sensors, or simply replace each one with a new one to check it. The Brake Wear warning should disappear with all sensors working correctly. If, for some reason, the CEL light is on, it has to be reset with an OBD program.

Quote: Originally Posted by vettdvr That is the type of assistance I was talking about. Sometimes I use penetrating oil first around the lugs and he flange opening. IF that doesn't work I figured that's what you meant! If you're going to heat it though, I recommend NOT using the penetrating oil! It could flash and start a fire!

Ok needing some help from you experts here. I'm doing front brakes on a friend's 06 E350. I know the rotors are warped so new ones are necessary. There are three sizes of rotors to choose from, 11.6", 11.8" and 12" in diameter. Is the OEM standard size 11.6" and will either the 11.8" or the 12" be a simple bolt on affair? That being said her rears are fine but for future...

I have done the brakes on my 2004 E320 two separate times; front rotors and all the pads. Normally after I finish the job, plug the SBC back in, turn the car on and pump the brakes it does the same thing; error messages and such. But then like you read above you need to turn it on again to get the error messages gone. Now did you go out and drive right after doing that? Because if you let your car sit you can hear the SBC working for a little...

The stealer gave me an estimate for $750 (Rear Rotors, pads & b fluid flush) ... I'm gonna give it a shot myself Could someone be kind enough to put together a tools list (I have no tools) please. 1. What ype of Jack is preferred (hydraulic 2 ton ? Where should the car be Jacked up from (for rear brakes) ? 2. Tool w/ Size to remove the Pins 3. Tool for Calipers clips 4. Tool to hold the brake fluid feed line (so when I push the...