Finally got down to one project, took a few years but I'm here now.
Build overview: To create a dependable, capable wheeler that will drive comfortably down the highway at 70+ mph.
* This build is possible only by the donations of several different blazers & trucks *
Parts of the project:
Chassis came from my very first blazer that I tore into back in 03.
Tub came ...
Another winter's storage.
Found a good used set of 37" GoodYear MTR radials.
Found a set 1-ton axles out of an '86 CUCV.
Had the H2's from another truck.
Digging it out yet again.
Additional ingredients will include:
355 crate motor with a Tuned Port Injection set up from an '86 Vette & serp belt assembly.
700r 4-spd auto transmission coupled to a 241 transfer case. (poor mans doubler that nets a 79:1 crawl ratio)
1-ton axles with 4:56 gears - Front will have an ARB, rear is locked via Detroit
37" GoodYear MTR's on H2's (maybe 40's if the budget allows)
Full ...
POR'd all the flash rust I could find, wiper area in the cowl, under the dash and around the transmission tunnel too.
On to primer and showing you some of the connection points.
Looks just like every other tub now...
Okay, I think that gets everything basically updated to the last couple post's on the other two threads I had going...whew.
Is it done yet? Whats your guess on a completion date? For anyone new and not seen your previous work ya might throw up a list of all the goodies, drivetrain, lift, etc.
So what are ya into this weekend? Why don't ya come down and help me finish mine? Just a little more sanding....
Looks like only moving it forward 1" does the trick. Makes a ton of room around the engine/dizzy/valve covers. Still leaves 5.5"s between the water pump & the fans. Allows me to leave it clocked up in the #2 position, although a wee bit of clearancing on the floor needs to happen. Even clocked up the most it will go, the 241 still hangs 2.5" below the frame rail though. This position also allows for both...
If you leave the engine in the stock location, the tranny crossmember would have to be moved ~2.5". Why not move the engine forward 1", which would give you plenty of clearance, and then move the tranny crossmember back the difference?
Im going to have an 8" lift most likely, do you think there would be driveshaft angle problems if I use the clocking ring to raise my transfer? what are you using for lift vt and aj?
I see exactly what you're talking about and I think it'd look real good. Kinda like a flat black hood on a Cuda or a Challenger, except it's a floor...... on a truck..... and it's orange....... okay, maybe its not the same. Put me down for liking the idea.
Could be the tall valve covers, with factory valve covers, I have about 1 1/2" - 2" of clearance. If and or when you move the engine forward you will have to cut and flange(Jon's idea) the crossmember, since the frame tapers in at the front. If you flange it now, you will be able to drop the pan if needed in the future Is the trans. at the right height? Looks good
Quote: Originally Posted by vtblazer Naw joking, I love orange and have always wanted an orange K5 but still, it's still surprisingly bright. Got proof I've been there, done orange before. I'm doing a 69 road runner for a guy right now. It's a black on black A12 4spd car. These blazers look soooo good orange. I wish mine was as far as yours is.
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