Thread: Need to control physical hot plate knob - Instrument Control (GPIB, Serial,
VISA, IVI) - NI Discussion Forums
Started 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Emm
I need to turn a physical hot plate knob both ways using some sort of small (I thought toy DC) motor. The plan is to set up a computer-monitored temperature control on an analog hot plate. I've some sort of power supply (I'll have to get details later), and I don't want to alter the hot plate in any way -- it's not a dedicated operation. I also need to do it without a DAQ board, if...
I'm not really certain that you've got a good concept for your project however, I can suggest a possible solution. Use a DC motor and gearing to allow the motor to turn the knob SLOWLY. Connect the supply to the motor through relays so that 3 states exist : 1)no voltage applied <Stop> 2)pos applied <Turn CW> and 3)Neg applied <Turn CCW> Control the relays with transistors ...
Following on Jeff's suggestion, you may want to include limit switches at both ends of knob travel to cut power to the motor in the offending direction. This will prevent stalling the motor in a locked rotor condition, stripping the knob from the shaft, or damaging the heater control. -AK2DM
Fallowing on to Analogkid:
place a diode in parallel to each of the limit switches so the motor can be pulled off the switch but not run into the stop.
Instead of putting in 2 relays a motor 2 limit switches and 2 diodes
and wiring all that up why not put one bigger relay in the power line
and
control the on/off time with it. Would be a lot simpler than trying to
deal with the ...
I'm a bit weak on the electronics, which is why I've asked about it, so I don't really understand the "relay". @AnalogKid, I don't understand how the limit switch works -- is it a physical placement? @Johnd01, if you mean in line with the DC motor, okay. If you mean in line with the hot plate, I don't want to alter the hot plate, and I'm not sure how to plug the hot plate into ...
Emm wrote: I'm a bit weak on the electronics, which is why I've asked about it, so I don't really understand the "relay". @AnalogKid, I don't understand how the limit switch works -- is it a physical placement? @Johnd01, if you mean in line with the DC motor, okay. If you mean in line with the hot plate, I don't want to alter the hot plate, and I'm not sure how to plug the hot ...
1.) I've done this type of control (within ±3˚C) with a hot plate manually. Not looking to "heat to temp" as much as "keep at temp", but I imagine a "heat to temp" would be easier with some rate dependency. 2.) It's the only instrument I have. It's not my lab - no budget. There's no problem other than time lost if the temp goes outside the range, I just don't want to have to ...
Alright - you are going to need a PID control algorhythim to keep the temp in range- It does just what a human does (Oh its a little bit low so just sooooo much more- ect...) like adjusting the shower. Unfortunatly YOUR only feedback is a temp probe that you are intefacing HOW?
I figured out how to control the motor with parallel; but came to the same realization about the thermocouple/thermistor connection about the same time. I don't know if it's possible to connect and read without the DAQ?
I've never tried this but it should be possible.-- Tie the thermistor to the feedback of a ring oscillator. The resistance of thermistor will vary with temperature. Therfore the ring oscillator frequency will change. Your PC probably has a MIC input record the tone and adjust the heat as needed.
Now I just need to build the contraption. I'm thinking to get a couple of gears, and attach a tight-fitting removable sleeve to the hot plate knob, and I think I've got the idea for the mount design -- won't firm it 'til I've all the supplies in hand. An electronics-minded classmate suggested the ~$10 DC "hobby motor" over the cheaper one, and I think I can pin it through parallel. ...
Now I just need to build the contraption. I'm thinking to get a couple of gears, and attach a tight-fitting removable sleeve to the hot plate knob, and I think I've got the idea for the mount design -- won't firm it 'til I've all the supplies in hand. An electronics-minded classmate suggested the ~$10 DC "hobby motor" over the cheaper one, and I think I can pin it through parallel. I know one power supply...
I've never tried this but it should be possible.-- Tie the thermistor to the feedback of a ring oscillator. The resistance of thermistor will vary with temperature. Therfore the ring oscillator frequency will change. Your PC probably has a MIC input record the tone and adjust the heat as needed.
Following on Jeff's suggestion, you may want to include limit switches at both ends of knob travel to cut power to the motor in the offending direction. This will prevent stalling the motor in a locked rotor condition, stripping the knob from the shaft, or damaging the heater control. -AK2DM
Fallowing on to Analogkid: place a diode in parallel to each of the limit switches so the motor can be pulled off the switch but not run into the stop. Instead of putting in 2 relays a motor 2 limit switches and 2 diodes and wiring all that up why not put one bigger relay in the power line and control the on/off time with it. Would be a lot simpler than trying to deal with the heat/cool time constants in adjusting the control which...
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