There is a hell of a good thread going about blower troubles and his carbs, so not wanting to jack that thread I thought I would start a separate one.
I've read everything I can find on running street blowers, on the internet and in a couple of books. I am not new to engines, but am to blowers. I've never tuned a blown engine.
Here's what I know now;
This vehicle is and is going to...
2 750's is not too much carb at all as a matter of fact it is about the minimum for a 6-71 or larger blower. It's not about the fuel needed it's about not choking the blower. Roots blowers move air very well, you never EVER want to restrict the inlet side of the blower.
Now as far as boost referencing, it is nice if you can, it's not a must. Leave the 6.5 PV in the carb you don't want to go...
Listen to CamaroMan and, when he tunes in, Firebird 68. I had nightmare blower carb tuning issues, with multiple backfires through the carbs, until these two offered advice which I followed. In my case, I had twin Holley 600s atop a Weiand 250 (roughly equivalent to a GMC 4:71) on a 30 over 350. The carbs have no chokes. In my case, elimination of the backfires and no problems at WOT required...
Thanks guys for the help. This project is getting off the ground in the next week or so. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.
I'm having a hard time understanding what type signal the carbs will see at different speeds. At idle I would think high vacuum, but at WOT wouldn't there still be a pretty good vacuum signal there? Would that depend on how fast you spin the blower? No ...
On any blower motor, the thing to avoid 24/7 is going lean on fuel to the engine. When going to WOT with a blower, carbs that have not been boost referenced may read a vacuum signal between the carbs and top of the blower rotor that causes, whether on an Edelbrock with its rods and springs or on a Holley with power valves, the carbs to go lean precisely when you need maximum fuel flow. "...
I have read in another forum that I could run 10.5 PVs and get by without boost referencing as long as we don't run a lot of boost. Does this sound doable to you guys?
Also, when you boost reference the PVs. Will they stand the positive pressure from boost under the blower without damaging them?
Hey guys got another question. The Weiand manifold we have has two 1/2" plugs in the rear over the water jacket in the heads, one on each side of course. I know there would be no flow there but wondering if would be a place for a reliable water temp reading for the temp gauge?
There is nothing on the front. Where did you guys install the gauge fitting?
These work great for temp sensors. I use one for my main engine temp and the other will be for the heater. It seems to read a bit higher than the front ones but I also added the blower which generally will run about 10 deg warmer anyway.
You guys seem to know your way around blowers and their best combinations,,,
I am putting together a 468 BBC 8.5-1 comp with gm oval port heads, a comp cams #11-414-8 grind #cb nx29hr-13, with hyd rollers, in- lift .566 ex .575
and have a B&M 420 blower, I am needing to buy some carbs soon, and and need some advice on what to get, I also want to install a nitrous plate system any ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Rat
You guys seem to know your way around blowers and their best combinations,,,
I am putting together a 468 BBC 8.5-1 comp with gm oval port heads, a comp cams #11-414-8 grind #cb nx29hr-13, with hyd rollers, in- lift .566 ex .575
and have a B&M 420 blower, I am needing to buy some carbs soon, and and need some ...
Hey guys got another question. The Weiand manifold we have has two 1/2" plugs in the rear over the water jacket in the heads, one on each side of course. I know there would be no flow there but wondering if would be a place for a reliable water temp reading for the temp gauge? There is nothing on the front. Where did you guys install the gauge fitting?
On any blower motor, the thing to avoid 24/7 is going lean on fuel to the engine. When going to WOT with a blower, carbs that have not been boost referenced may read a vacuum signal between the carbs and top of the blower rotor that causes, whether on an Edelbrock with its rods and springs or on a Holley with power valves, the carbs to go lean precisely when you need maximum fuel flow. "Referencing" what the engine is...
2 750's is not too much carb at all as a matter of fact it is about the minimum for a 6-71 or larger blower. It's not about the fuel needed it's about not choking the blower. Roots blowers move air very well, you never EVER want to restrict the inlet side of the blower. Now as far as boost referencing, it is nice if you can, it's not a must. Leave the 6.5 PV in the carb you don't want to go higher, but may need to go...
These work great for temp sensors. I use one for my main engine temp and the other will be for the heater. It seems to read a bit higher than the front ones but I also added the blower which generally will run about 10 deg warmer anyway.
You guys seem to know your way around blowers and their best combinations,,, I am putting together a 468 BBC 8.5-1 comp with gm oval port heads, a comp cams #11-414-8 grind #cb nx29hr-13, with hyd rollers, in- lift .566 ex .575 and have a B&M 420 blower, I am needing to buy some carbs soon, and and need some advice on what to get, I also want to install a nitrous plate system any advice?? [...
Quote: Originally Posted by Bad Rat You guys seem to know your way around blowers and their best combinations,,, I am putting together a 468 BBC 8.5-1 comp with gm oval port heads, a comp cams #11-414-8 grind #cb nx29hr-13, with hyd rollers, in- lift .566 ex .575 and have a B&M 420 blower, I am needing to buy some carbs soon, and and need some advice on what to get, I also want to install a nitrous plate system any advice?? [...
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