Thread: Kiwi scratchbuilt - Page 5 - GT40s.com

Exactly right guys, but there is no room to run the stays forward to the engine mount bosses and also that doesn't cure the chassis flex situation. Now, since the motor is solid mounted, it is much easier to kill the two birds with one stone and tie the trans into the chassis, as I have done, and this will stiffen everything up. QED

Hi guys , the fronts on the Skyline,300Zs etc are double tapper rollers, This is what I am using in my front uprights. Cheers Leonmac.

Quote: Originally Posted by flatchat Spot on Jac -- the trouble with Ford motors --ther'se no support for the bell housing below the crank centre line -- the natural torque of the trans is to try and lift the motor --or fold the adapter plate under the engine. So,- the trans needs to be supported and the adapter plate braced --the motor needs to be mounted fairly solidly as well. Our solution for eg. :- Chris old buddy, I feel the real...

Congrats guys Great to hear the miss is gone! It is an awesome feeling to have all your blood,sweat and tears win a race. Sounds like you guys are going to make the SFOS this year. Cheers Dave

Russ IRS Commodores and I guess Falcons use a double row ball bearing as per picture. This type of bearing is also common is FWD vehicles In the case of the Commodore I think from memory they are 37 X 72 x 37 or close to that. Corvette is the same arrangement I believe This bearing is also used on the front of Nissan Skyline, Cefiro etc A heavier version of this is used in the front of the Skyline turbo 4WDs

Russ: Looks and sounds great, I know the audio doesent do that motor justice, I'll bet it sounds sweet in person. Your chassis looks better every time I see it. Cheers Phil

Russ, You have got most of it right, not one but several unforced errors whilst exploring.... no damage other than my ego which was well and truly over inflated before this weekends racing. Dont want to hijack your thread so have tried (unsuccessfully) to post a few photos on the paddock thread

There is no relative movement between the dogs and the gears once the dog is pressed onto the gear.The slider is the only moving(sliding) part to engage the gear. The slider slides on the hub the same way Hewland does. Yes, you can re-grind the dog to make is usable,only up to the certain point before you don't have enough dog left .

Russ, If the problem is with the end of the muffler, you should be able to add a couple of tabs to hold it steady. The trans support That I made came from a local Ace hardware from hollow round stock. It uses the trans bolts and is rigid to the frame as is the motor mounts. Simple and light weight. Don't know if that meets the requirements you are putting on the hardware. This one shows the tabs and the mount.

No worries Russ you'll work it out! Some will laugh at my old school approach, but my plain old Mallory Dual Point with the lightweight spring point set works flawlessly. It didn't miss a beat on the Dyno pulls to well over 7K rpm and is inexpensive. I know Andy's red car has gone thousands of miles with one without skipping a beat. Plus if you want you can bypass the ballast resistor at the track for a really big spark, you...