Thread: Is duracoat comparable to black t/armory kote/armor-tuff?
Started 4 months, 3 weeks ago by bin31z
I've heard alot of good things about baked on finishes like black t/bear coat/armory kote etc. Is duracoat considered comparable to these finishes? It doesn't seem to be regarded as durable a finish as the before mentioned ones but I don't have any experience with any of them.
Not as tough...
It is as good a protectant from water and such... if applied properly.
And it can be "touched up" if it becomes damaged.
And you can apply it to plastic, Steel, Optics, Wood, etc... Where the other coatings require high heat or chemical exposure.
None of my clients have experienced the above. However I have seen improper prep and application experience some problems like being removed with acetone.
In leather holster the stuff is ok on a pistol- I tend to speak in worst case terms- no dissapointments that way... kydex or blackhawk will kill duracoat- no matter the preparation. Do a torture test before you bank on any statement about the longevity of Dura.
We've been offering Dura for upwards of 6 years- we have a full time Refinisher working... he does impeccable work... but ANY paint-...
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRTguns
not so much.. holsters eat it up. Safeties and slide stops scratch it, etc...
Agreed, Duracoat is also not resistant to solvents. I like to clean my slides with acetone prior to re-oiling. Acetone will eat up the Duracoat almost instantly. Duracoat is also pretty easily ...
Duracoat....
hey, at least its not Krylon.
Nope...its not super paint. Its decent but will never withstand hard use. But then again...what will withstand hard use? None of the above.
Its just such a pain getting stuff coated in those premium finishes. You always have to send it somewhere far away and wait god knows how long until it comes back. sigh.
The toughest part of refinishing at home for me is the blasting. I can bake, spray, pretreat, clean and degrease. The blasting is a lot of equipment to put out the money for.
I use Alumahyde 2.
I've heard alot of good things about baked on finishes like black t/bear coat/armory kote etc. Is duracoat considered comparable to these finishes? It doesn't seem to be regarded as durable a finish as the before mentioned ones but I don't have any experience with any of them.
In leather holster the stuff is ok on a pistol- I tend to speak in worst case terms- no dissapointments that way... kydex or blackhawk will kill duracoat- no matter the preparation. Do a torture test before you bank on any statement about the longevity of Dura. We've been offering Dura for upwards of 6 years- we have a full time Refinisher working... he does impeccable work... but ANY paint- epoxy or other does have a finite film...
Quote: Originally Posted by uclaplinker I'm 99% the acetone stuff is BS. I need to bring some home and try this. I can't imagine DuraCoat coming off with acetone - I've definitely used other solvents on it without issue and acetone is not a very good solvent. It is on paint! And it dries wonderfully oil free. i would also like to know who makes springfield's armory kote. I would like to redo parts of my 1911 but want to...
Quote: Originally Posted by CRTguns not so much.. holsters eat it up. Safeties and slide stops scratch it, etc... Agreed, Duracoat is also not resistant to solvents. I like to clean my slides with acetone prior to re-oiling. Acetone will eat up the Duracoat almost instantly. Duracoat is also pretty easily scratched and will burn off if the part gets too hot. Its more of a softer epoxy-paint finish rather than a harder enamel like Gunkote or...
Duracoat.... hey, at least its not Krylon. Nope...its not super paint. Its decent but will never withstand hard use. But then again...what will withstand hard use? None of the above.
The toughest part of refinishing at home for me is the blasting. I can bake, spray, pretreat, clean and degrease. The blasting is a lot of equipment to put out the money for. I use Alumahyde 2.
Quote: Originally Posted by xxdabroxx if its not to big, gunkote it yourself. It is acetone proof after being cooked. So long as you have an oven big enough to fit the part and an airbrush/ trim gun you are good to go. Well after stripping the part at least. I have had pretty good luck with KG's Gunkote so far. I did not realize that duracote would come off with acetone. Duracote makes one you bake on as well right? Is it more resistant...
None of my clients have experienced the above. However I have seen improper prep and application experience some problems like being removed with acetone.
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