I think i am going to go with cellulose ultramarine blue (RAL5002) The ratio is 1 part paint, 1 part thinner. Apparently this paint does not require a lacquer it is a direct gloss paint. My two questions; is this statement true about not needing lacquer as that will save me a fair amount of cash and time. How much paint will I need (as i will need to match the amount with thinner) ...
Hi Folks I have a recurring thin line of rust at the joint between the top of both front wings and the main body. I have tried rubbing down, refilling the joint and priming but to no avail - it just keeps on coming back. I can't see any way of sealing it from below. Can anyone offer any advice please. Photo attached. Thanks Larry III
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If the rust is deep in the join then its always going to make its way back to the surface. I think your best option might be to pour something like Kurust down the joint and let it dry before you seal it, this should convert most of not all the rust and buy you a few etra years!
looks more like filler crack than rust. the panel gap between the wing and she scuttle should be alot deeper than that. dig it all out and put a little seam sealer in and repaint
hahaha. Should have seen that coming.. RE: rust, I agree that seam should be dug out. Filler is a NoNo!! seam sealer will slow rust progression, but the longer you leave it the more pannels will need replacement in the future. Think scuttle ends, closing pannel, door pillar/finch pannel and wing replacement. A weeks hard graft if you can weld
hi ..... im just about to fit my rear valence and closing panels but due to my lack of experience and never done anything like this before not sure how they fit , if anyone has got any pics of how they should look and how they fit would be a great help. i did try searching for a section on here but couldnt realy find anything much. thanks stu.........
Cheers Rob! QUOTE (chunkytfg @ Jul 29 2009, 05:54 PM) if the door step is staying then bracing wont be needed imo however if it comes out due to rust then yes it'll need bracing Is the door step a separate piece to the inner and outer sills?
QUOTE (roofless @ Nov 11 2009, 07:53 PM) what primer you working with to get a good start point prior to colour? is this question aimed at me? Ill be applying black primer, before I apply the black undercoat, then just a fine layer of pearl purple as I want the colour to be dominantly black but with a purple hint. 1 to 2 layers of purple.
My mate used rustoleum on his pickup and he didn't prime, it seemed to go on fine, I'll speak to him tomorrow and ask him for some tips, IE what he'd do different next time etc...
Almost ready to start doing the fitch, sills and door step on my project. The door step and outer sill that is on at the minute seems to have a slight curve down its length (ive noticed that the door also has a slight curve). The sill and door step replacements are bang straight. Im wondering if there is a technique to getting them to shape easily? tom
I didn't think anyone made a full non-genuine scuttle. Ive only ever seen the non genuine repair sections for either end (and these are crap make no mistake!)
Personally I wouldn't bother trying to save money here. The hadrian repo's are utter crap, I had a hinge panel that wasn't even close to being the correct shape. By the time you've tried to weld those 3 panels together and then got them to even look 1/2 right you'll wish you'd bought the Genuine ones!! Having said the the full rear panel isn't that much more expensive, not sure whether thats...
Have the a panels been replaced? You will probably find the doors might need pulling up and down to get them aligned, the hinge will do so much, then you will need to use brute force to bend the hinge panel into shape. Paul.
RAL is a european colour standard - IE RAL 7025 is the same dark grey anywhere. It's an industry standard, so you can get RAL 7025 2k, celly, enamel and even powder coat, and they will all be very close to the same colour. Aim for a primer that is similar in colour to the topcoat, but don't go mad. 2k covers pretty well, so the main thing is to just get all the primer the same colour, and nice and flat. If I was faced with a mini in...
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