I installed a new undercounter dishwasher in the same place as always, the right side when facing the sink. My wife comes up tonight and says it is a left side dish washer because the silverware basket is designed to set along the right (far) side of the lower rack. This would mean if that unit was installed in a left side of sink arrangement the silverware basket would be near the person ...
This may indeed be spam, but what the heck. We have only a four-foot space between houses and it's hard and dangerous to put up a ladder there. So I rigged up a long pipe with a curved tip that I attach to the shop vac. A friend of mine actually came up with the idea. You stay on the ground (where I feel safer) and suck what you can out of the eaves. Not as good as a hand cleaning from the ...
For those of us who have: -second stories that are 20' high, and -have roof overhangs 3' deep, and -who are less and less enamored of raising 20+ foot tall ladders and trying to lean them against aluminum gutters without damaging them, and -have major landscaping around the perimeter of our house that makes placement of the ladder base problematic, and -have sloping land on some ...
No disrespect to your painter, but you should hire a home inspector, at the least, to determine your problem which sounds a lot like moisture exfiltration due to either no vapor barrier or one poorly installed. The above can involve problems far worse than peeling paint.
Keep in mind trying to diagnose a problem over the internet is like opening a window on a hot day and air conditioning the Earth----. Sounds like you have at least two problems. The most serious is that there is probably water getting into the insulation cavity. That problem needs to be found and corrected. Second is that if there is plastic next to the sheet rock and another barrier under ...
It sounds to me like we definitely need a professional to look into this. Is a home inspector a good place to start, or would we be better off with some other type of contractor (perhaps a carpenter)? I appreciate all of the advice.
Home inspector---one with a LOT of experience. Contractors often have little knowlege of specialty problems, however, an experienced roofing contractor might be the best second resource.
First you determine the scope and location of the problem. If it occurs where there is no overhang it isn't the drip edge. If it occurs high as well as low it isn't splash back from the lack of gutters. What kind of sheathing is it? OSB takes a long time to dry. What kind of air/weather barrier? Perforated house wraps are not waterproof and others act as a vapor barrier ...
The oor don't closse each time with the remote. Sometimes it closes on the third try. Other times it works fine It starts down about a foot and goes back up. The sensors are lit yellow and green. Is there a torq adjustment on these openiers? If I pull down when this problem occurs it closes.
I haven't used this particular product but I've used other Johnson products on a number of projects and have been quite pleased with them. I'd say go for it.
Sometimes water enters at the top of a storm window if it is not fully raised. then the water collects on the window sill and the storm window can prevent it from draining back outside (if the weeps are clogged). The water eventually gets into the wall and leaks below. So, the first action is to get the storm windows properly closed. Sometimes silicone spray helps the tracks.
You can use a metal edging similar to a drywall corner bead with the exception that one side is the thickness of the drywall and is meant to be a finished edge. It comes in 1/2" or 5/8" widths in the event you are using 5/8" type x drywall. Most big box stores as well as most lumbies have it. You can also try drywall/masonry suppliers. It caps the edge you are wanting finished with the other edge same as corner bead that you mud...
Regarding sealer, I can only tell you that I've had to repair many a piece of gouged sheetrock and done many patches and other repairs, and I've yet to have any problems when directly applying joint compound to unsealed surfaces. And it hasn't made any difference whether the fix invoved paper tape or not. Just my experience...
The manufacturer has never furnished any information or parts lists for their electronics. The only way to check the logic board is by replacement. I would check your logic board for missing or loose connections on the printed circuit. One of the relays on that board controls the motor but I don't even know how to find a replacement.
Try skimming a large area with damaged cardboard from contact paper that was torn off. Time is money, and while you can not seal and just apply another coat of mud, schedules matter. I can use a shellac based sealer, then skim in about an hour and know there will not be bubbling. I rarely even skim with pre-mixed mud and a drywall knife. Setting compound and a plasterer's trowel make very short work of large areas.
I use brickeyes method with "wet" concrete, mixed according to manufactures specs. after the concrete has cure for a couple of weeks I go around and caulk the joint between the post and the concrete, just as a bit of added insurance against moisture and rot.
Update: Decided to give the steamer a quick shot and could immediately see big improvement. 10 min with steamer = about a days worth the way I was doing it before. Will have to wait till weekend to do more as I will have to remove a light and shades to get at very top but hey least I am making progress!! Fletch
When they gave me the quote it wasn't broken down by window, plus it was one of the "specials" buy three get one free. Of course that is a tactic for pressure to sign on the doted line. I had three different companys give me quotes and picked the one in the middle. It averaged out to about $800-850 per window depending on how I did the math. They removed, disposed of and re-did trim on inside and out. They replaced most of the...
Ditto for cleaning the centrifugal switch contacts. Not a difficult task, I removed the motor, took off the casing, pried the contacts apart, smoothed the contact surfaces with a nail file and put it back together. It's been working for another 25+ years. The contacts were slightly welded together by arcing, probably from being run in a particularly dirty atmosphere (metal and wood fumes)
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Please... whatever you do, make sure the 2nd drawer down... Please... whatever you do, make sure the 2nd drawer down on the left side of the sink is sad. Please give it the love IT needs, please!
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