Thread: DSLR advice needed

I have been reading a certain amount then trying it out to gain a better understanding, mainly using the semi-auto modes so that I could concentrate on playing with the settings from the section I'd just read.... the manual doesn't explain what things do really, mainly just how to alter the settings using the various buttons/dials, so there isn't anything that mentions it having a light meter/how it works. There is a section on...

Originally Posted by Bobster not helpful? of course it is, its essential that you understand how the histogram works to get proper exposure of a scene.. Sorry, but I don't agree. People have been able to take properly exposed photos for years using the light meter in the camera and without any access to a histogram. The addition of the histogram hasn't suddenly rendered light meters useless. The histogram is still useful, as I said,...

Originally Posted by kalniel Sensor construction doesn't affect diffraction limits on resolution. of course it does - more photosites on same size die means that they are smaller>worse diffraction - an analogy would be that it's a bit like looking through a fence with smaller mesh. Anything infront of the sensor can only reduce the resolution, like AA filter, lens etc. but when you're comparing the 450D with the 500D you...

Originally Posted by kalniel Sorry, but I don't agree. People have been able to take properly exposed photos for years using the light meter in the camera and without any access to a histogram. yes and most used a hand held light meter.. and the ones that developed their own film even pushed stuff about in the darkroom.. Originally Posted by kalniel The addition of the histogram hasn't suddenly rendered light meters useless. The...

Originally Posted by GSte I have been reading a certain amount then trying it out to gain a better understanding, mainly using the semi-auto modes so that I could concentrate on playing with the settings from the section I'd just read.... the manual doesn't explain what things do really, mainly just how to alter the settings using the various buttons/dials, so there isn't anything that mentions it having a light meter/how it...

actually this is really rather true. So many of the lenses are designed and even fabbed by the same people, for the different companies. You can buy any consumer DSLR and you probably won't be disappointed. The problem becomes as you start to be more transfixed on the technical part, rather than the composition, this is something i suffer from, I have a very boring, un-interesting picture, but its free of any kind of achromatic aberration!

Originally Posted by Blastuk Polarising filters tend to reduce light coming to the sensor, it's not something you'd want to keep on your lens permanently like you can with a UV fillter.. and they have different purposes so it's not like you can replace one with the other. Personally as long as the light settings are good enough, I tend to keep the polarising filter on anyway. It brings out so much depth and colour that...

ALL zooms with a wide angle (16-18mm on APS, 24mm on full frame) have barrel distortion - even professional grade lenses, its the nature of the beast. Unless you are doing extreme architectural photography you are unlikely to notice. And you can easily correct alot of barrel distortion in photoshop etc as long as the distortion follows a regular pattern (some lenses have a 'mustache' shaped distortion). if you want distortion free...

I would go for the 450D rather than the 500D and save yourself some money for lens/flash etc - unless you are wanting to use the video capabilities of the 500D, which I personally wouldn't need.

I'd go for a 450D with the 18-55 Is kit lens, the 55-250 IS and get hold of a 50 f1.8