Thread: Crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt (big pics)
Started 4 months, 2 weeks ago by l4mbch0ps
So, i'm in the process of trying to remove the oil pump to find a leak in there, and i'm stuck where a lot of other people have been before: the crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt. It's been undergoing repeated WD-40 applications all morning, and i've tried every extension bar/breaker bar i have, i've tried jacking on the wrench, i've broken a screw driver off on the flywheel teeth while trying ...
Damnit, well now i've gone and done it... I went out and hit it with WD-40 again, made sure the wrench was on square and everything, and gave it another crank. "Pop!" I'm temporarily filled with glee as i envision the ease with which i will be removing this bolt now... To my dismay, the bolt has completely rounded off. With the crank locked with a screwdriver on the flywheel teeth, i can ...
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I'm sorry to see that you had so much trouble with the bolt. That build up you noticed on the threads is actually Loctite of some sort, and I've come across many stubborn crank bolts in my time! Honestly, the ONLY way to get them off is to apply generous heat directly to the bolt head with one of those portable propane torches. The heat makes the loctite breakdown and turn to powder, and surely ...
Great tip for next time, thanks... In the end, if i had had the tools that i was finally able to get it done with, i'm sure it would have come right off. It was a combination of improper tools, and improper usage that caused the stripping. I'm never attacking a serious bolt like that without my breaker bar and impact sockets again! Only problem i'm having now is getting the damn pulley off ...
So i was able to source a replacement bolt, big thanks to codyb76... Unfortunately, it's shorter than my stock bolt. Now, cody hasn't gotten back to me about what year GT he pulled it off of, but i was just wondering if anyone had run into this difference in crank bolt sizes before. It looks like my long bolt only has loc-tite on it for approximately the same length as the new bolt, which ...
The general rule of thumb for a bolted union is that the thread engagement should be at least equivalent to the bolt diameter. What is that bolt? 12mm? 14mm? So after 12mm or 14mm(respectively) of thread engagement, the rate that the strength increases diminishes quickly. Judging by the loctite marks on your old bolt to ballpark the area of thread engagement, I would just say use it if you are ...
17mm bolt diameter. The two bolts are 30mm and 35mm in length. Looks like the loctite is on between 18 and 22mm of the long bolt, ending at approximately 31mm... about 1 more thread than is on the other bolt.
From everything i can tell so far, the new bolt will work just fine. The threads only appear to be as deep as the loctite was on the old bolt, which is almost exactly as long as the shorter one. The guy who i got the bolt from said it was off a 90 or 91, and mine's a 91, so i'm figuring it's got something to do with whomever had previously worked on this engine. Thanks everyone for the tips... ...
That's a negative on it being a 17mm, that is the head size. The bolt size is a 12mm. I just zipped one out of an 89 GTi engine I have destined for my samurai and it is 12mm, 35mm long, FYI.
Ah, okay, bolt diameter, not head diameter. I understand. Regardless, i have atleast 18mm of bite on the threads... and it's torqued to spec right now (83ftlb) with the smaller 30mm bolt. Just got the pan back on, and starting in on the rest in a few minutes.
I'm not sure how many of you guys have come across this particular 'issue'. I have had to repair several G13B DOHC engines that were suffering from severe retarded camshaft timing due to the crank pulley bolt being reused after a cam seal replacement. What I have discovered is that the crank gear bolt is about 1/8" shorter than the thread depth in the nose of the crankshaft, and when the bolt is first tightened...
That's a negative on it being a 17mm, that is the head size. The bolt size is a 12mm. I just zipped one out of an 89 GTi engine I have destined for my samurai and it is 12mm, 35mm long, FYI.
What I do when I have to take the timing belt pulley bolt out is, take out one of the spark plugs and pour water into the engine, and then put the plug back in. That way the engine hydrolocks and stops it from spinning. Then just use a breaker bar. When your all done take the spark plug out and turn the engine over a cuple of times to let the water out.
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