hi both appear to be due to loose connections,Did you have a limp wristed sparkie do the wiring?
Thread: Couple of queries .. electrics problems  |
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Started 1 month ago by rjb123
Hi All,
First post on this forum hope I can find some good advice.
First of all the bathroom mirror unit we had with fitted halogens stopped working - took the thing apart and the switch has completely burnt out inside
The rating on the switch says 2A 125V AC
There's 2 12v 20W halogens powered by it which comes to 4A , am I correct in thinking that this ...
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properleckie replied 1 month ago
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rjb123 replied 1 month ago
The first one was wired like that internally - only opened as it was faulty , would the switch rating not have something to do with it?
The dishwasher connection has been there for years and not a problem before (since 1992!)
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flameport replied 1 month ago
40W at 12V is 3.3A, so more than the switch rating.
However the switch should be in the mains supply side, otherwise the transformer in the fitting remains powered all the time, and would have no load on the output when the lights were off.
At 230V, the current would only be around 0.17A
However this is wrong either way.
A 2A switch is no good for 3.3A @ 12V
A 125V switch ...
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rjb123 replied 1 month ago
Thanks - I thought the switch was on the 12V side as the wires come out of the transformer into the switch - although I don't know much about these things
I'll get in touch with the manufacturer/seller , see if they can give me a free replacement for this part, it is less than a year old after all
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electronicsuk replied 1 month ago
flameport wrote :
However this is wrong either way.
A 2A switch is no good for 3.3A @ 12V
A 125V switch is no good for 230V.
Although the current rating is provided @ 125v, that doesn't necessarily mean the switch isn't rated to 230v. __________________ Matthew
"I told you, I only wrote that poem to test my printer!"
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Atilla replied 1 month ago
electronicsuk wrote : flameport wrote :
However this is wrong either way.
A 2A switch is no good for 3.3A @ 12V
A 125V switch is no good for 230V.
Although the current rating is provided @ 125v, that doesn't necessarily mean the switch isn't rated to 230v.
its a switch not a device therefore - surely it means 2A or 125V max ?
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rjb123 replied 1 month ago
Lets see what the retailer says ... the manufacturer is in Italy so I don't think I'll have much luck contacting them for a replacement.
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rjb123 replied 3 weeks, 6 days ago
Got a replacement for the bathroom unit sorted out quicky, arrived on Friday which was sooner than expected!
Bought a new switch for the dishwasher unit, but unfortunately the cable behind is burnt so won't be able to use that.
Would it be safe just to cut the cable a bit and join up some new cable with 13a connection / terminal block and then fit the switch, or should I get a ...
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rjb123 replied 3 weeks, 6 days ago
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1john replied 3 weeks, 6 days ago
30 A connector prob required if on a ring final circuit. it will all depend on how far the cable is burnt as to if you can join on a new bit. is it on the supply cable or the load cable?
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