Okay I started this with what I drive- Its a give-away for brand specific Driveline needs that you have - What I'd like to see is give me your specs and needs / problems and let me recommend a solution -and you may be the lucky winner- We will see how this plays out -Jess
God I love Chevy's
Sweet, I'm in.. Well, I don't have a parking brake, and my 1350 cv binds a little. At least the last 2 times I needed shaft work, i took it to Drive-line service in west Sacramento, ca. to either lengthen or shorten and balance, they have told me I needed the cv u-joints replaced, again. my truck doesn't see 500 hwy miles a year, especially now.. I believe the solution would be a 1410 205 yoke...
Sweet, I'm in.. Well, I don't have a parking brake, and my 1350 cv binds a little. At least the last 2 times I needed shaft work, i took it to Drive-line service in west Sacramento, ca. to either lengthen or shorten and balance, they have told me I needed the cv u-joints replaced, again. my truck doesn't see 500 hwy miles a year, especially now.. I believe the solution would be a 1410 205 yoke ...
The yoke is shot on my SF14 bolt. Cant wheel till its fixed. Do you have an upgrade for that axle? Could I grind down the ends where the bolts hold the straps to tighten up the slop?? I can check the spline count and shaft size after work.
Thanks,
Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetoncv
Get a star it could be a good thing- JEss
What can I say, you're a great motivator!
*********************************
Ok, I'm in and need a front shaft!
I've got a 91 K5, ~7" lift (using 52" springs) w/ 4spd doubler (32 spline front output) and D60. Ideally I'd ...
The yoke is shot on my SF14 bolt. Cant wheel till its fixed. Do you have an upgrade for that axle? Could I grind down the ends where the bolts hold the straps to tighten up the slop?? I can check the spline count and shaft size after work.
Thanks,
Dave
On yours usually the best yoke is a 1350 U bolt style- -we could do a flange also- but its usually not needed- Jess
well right now this is how my truck sits.. its a huge looking 2wd pavement princess.. I would definitely like to finially make it a 4wd again, and go mashing through some mud... but i scored a set of rockwells for a sweet deal, so i plan to replace the dana 60 and 14 bolt this summer with them. So my delima is build a shaft for the 60 that is under the truck right now, and then come summer time ...
I'd like to see an option that works for me that doesn't feel like a nasty compromise in one area or another. Lots of options exist for guys running big axles and mating it to Toyota running gear, but what about the other way around? I have a Chevy 205, but Toy axles. With the 205 I can go 1310 front and rear or 1310 rear/flange front with the parts I have available. I'd like to keep things as replaceable as possible. Sure,...
Awww, dammit... the State of California strikes again... hey.. stupid question... but would being of hispanic decent for the purposes of this giveaway make me more likely to be chosen? not that I am.... or that i would so choose to say that I am... Sorry, Camo, not making fun of you, but more of the crap you have to put up with from the bastages at the State level.. Im glad i aint in your shoes.
Quote: Originally Posted by onetoncv I have an 83 swb thats been pieced togeather for years, 350 .040 over, 465/205(slip yoke...that sux). 8 inch lift 39s, 14b det locker/ d60 welded. I still have the lil stock shafts, I have to keep a few junkyard shafts in stock since the motor and 39s tear them up. funds just dont persist to do the shafts or much work to it for now anyway, works super slow (our great economy..lol but thats everywhere))....
Quote: Originally Posted by onetoncv Hoally shaitt- that's a bit of a big blazer- if I knew what your projected driveline angle and t-case angle was then I could tell ya for sure- also what t-case ? Jess Yea it turned out a bit bigger then i wanted but i will make the runner a crawler, lol. I can take some angle measurements when i go home this weekend from school, if needed. The tcase is a 205, and the front axle is moved forward from...
Quote: Originally Posted by onetoncv were giving a couple things away someone with a true right now need , how is the need being quantified ? it sounds more like an open ended loophole that will get you in trouble with the attorney generals office.
Quote: Originally Posted by onetoncv -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I drive this all that i can but the front drive line is a weak point. whats you recommendation " Roy I think 2 possibilities the 42 degree c/v up top assuming you have a flange on the front -and either 1410 yoke or the 38 degree 1410 flange at the axle - Or non c/v 38 degree 1410 top flange mount ( may need...
I got a toy flange from you for my true Hi 9" It's in the blazer now and putting my doubler in and it has 1350 joints. Should I just run all 1350 or a 1350 toy drive shaft. Only have 4" of lift. Just streched the rear 6" if this helps any.
The yoke is shot on my SF14 bolt. Cant wheel till its fixed. Do you have an upgrade for that axle? Could I grind down the ends where the bolts hold the straps to tighten up the slop?? I can check the spline count and shaft size after work. Thanks, Dave
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