Here is a good one for you blower guys. I have a 8.5 to 1 468 BBC w/hyd roller cam. Motor is on a run up stand and did run very good. Other than the cam this motor is pretty much stock. I have installed a USED Weiand 6-71 on it. It came off a SBC so I had to buy the Intake, pully parts, and belt to make it fit the BBC. The intake is new. The carbs are matching 600 Holleys. I am running ...
Running a 6-71 on a 468 at 9% under-driven you are making absolutely no boost. You need to run 1:1 just to make 2 pounds. In my opinion, a 6-71 is too small for a BBC. To make any appreciable boost you're going to have to over drive the blower by at least 10% (5 pounds). The faster you spin the blower, the more heat you add to the charge. Heat lowers your detonation margin.
Also, the ...
check the pop off valve
if its open itll do as you stated.
must be fully closed.
most used blowers valves are shot .
at least the ones ive seen.
heres my instructions for as 6-71
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/W538 .pdf
if you dont have them
pop off valve instructions
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/W510 .pdf
I'm not trying to build any boost really. This is going to be for show and sound. I have 3 go fast cars so don't really need another one. What is the blower supposed to be torqued at??? I will try changing pullies but don't really understand what that has to do with loosing the vacuum signal after the engine starts!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by msggator
...don't really understand what that has to do with loosing the vacuum signal after the engine starts!!!
Probably has nothing to do with it... just an old hot-rodder making an observation... I'll go back to my room now.
Oh yeah, here are the torque specs from BDS that I used with my 6-71.
My 454 is naturally aspirated.
Holley 750 (3310) on an RPM Air Gap intake.
My son and his buddies stopped by yesterday and wanted me to fire it up.
It's got an electric fuel pump, so I'm reasonably sure that the bowls were full.
Usually it's two pumps, and kit the key ... and it fires right up. It will die if you let off without giving it a minute to warm up a little.
Well, it's...
Thanks for the torque specs. Any idea I get from anyone is worth looking into. This motor runs but only for a couple of seconds then looses its suck from the carb so the idle circuit is not receiving a signal which means no fuel. Sarge
bigger fuel line to the carbs from the pump?
I dont really understand your reasoning by going through all the trouble to put on a blower if your not gonna use it?
Thanks for the message. A lack of fuel is why it won't stay running, I'm sure, but the lack of fuel is because there is no vacuum through the top of the carbs to signal for fuel. Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Again what cam is in it? (ya it matters) What are you setting the timing at and what rpm are you warming up the engine at? or attempting to warm up the engine at?
Have you verified that you do have compression in all 8 cylinders? (Compression test)
I am not sure of the cam specs anymore ...
Quote: Originally Posted by XNTRCI-T Those Edels really don't like more than about 5.5 pounds, and that's if you have the floats set properly (you DID reset the floats per the manual, right?). If you have an adjustable regulator, wind it down to about 5 pounds. I'm running one -6 line from the pump to the regulator, then split to two -6s, one to each carb. Fuel starvation has not been a problem. What kind of throttle linkage do...
Quote: Originally Posted by msggator I can kill it by covering only one carb (no vacuum leaks). Fuel pressure is 6psi. I may be starving it some with 1 -6an feeding both carbs... If I just touch the throttle the motor goes to 4500, and I mean just breath on it. Covering the carb(s) is not going to tell you whether you have a vacuum leak, because you're shutting off the air flow through the carb(s) and that stops the fuel flow. Those...
idle screws 1/2 turn out and it runs better is making me think your running rich on the idle circuit. maybe blown power valve or leaking by on the bowl seats. something is definately amiss there.
Quote: Originally Posted by msggator If I were to change to alcohol metering plates, would it help????? NO, and seeing how you have ruined your current blocks by completely drilling out the restriction(it should have been drilled bigger a couple thousandths at a time to find the sweet spot) it looks like replacing them with new Holley blocks or better yet some billet adjustable blocks is in your future. Do you have any kind of book or manual...
I have almost the same setup on my SBC and it works the same. Cold start at 32 deg and it just sat there purring away. We took off and drove up to the gas station and filled up and came back. We let it run for over 1/2 hour while we went over the timing and carb adjustments. It never over heated or got the headers red hot. It runs at 1000 rpm in Park and 700 rpm in gear. We let it idle for 10 minuted to simulate getting caught in traffic and...
Here's an older thread on boost-referenced blower carbs. It's got some info from Tech@BG (Barry Grant Carbs) and some more from Camaroman7d (Royce) who seems to be very well informed, IMO, when it comes to blowers.
I'm currently running twin holley 750dp blower carbs with 8.5 p.v.'s on my 6-71 sbc, and have no complaints. In fact... they work great! no start-up issues or any other probs to speak of. I don't have to wait for it to warm up to hit the gas, even when I fire it up in the high 30s (been cold here the last couple days!) No backfire or popping at all. I do have the 'blower surge' some people speak badly about though,...
What XNTRCI-T said. I have a 291 DeSoto Hemi, fresh rebuild, roller cam. I used 2 Carter Competition Series 500CFM carbs, rebuilt to 1404 specs for a blower engine, per the Edelbrock Manual. Stock distributor with a Pertronix unit in it, and an approximate initial timing setting. It didn't get to turn one complete revolution and it fired right up and ran beautifully. A little fiddling withe idle mix/ speed and it idles great. I think...
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