Polyurethane foam | Thread profile

Never used Polyurethane (ie. gorilla glue) and am considering giving it a try. I would use resorcinal glue but I'm currently out. Just some trim pieces on a cedar flower box. How do you deal with the foam? Keep wiping until it quits foaming? Wait till it cures, then "scrape" it off? Painters tape adjacent to the joint then peel the tape off? Just how messy is this stuff? -Joe...

I would categorize it as very messy. I've only had luck scraping it off after the foam dries and hardens completely. I'm hoping others chime in with their expeiriences.

This I am sure will come out sounding harsh and will cause all kinds of controversy. So be it. But. You are excused from using Gorrila glue once. The first time. After that..... Want to glue stuff outside with a Poly glue? PL premium polyurethane construction adhesive. accept no substitute. Per

Actually, I had a tube of that in my hands at the borg then decided to ask about the poly. I've used PL400 on subfloors before but it is awful thick. Doesn't seem like I'd get the joints to close with something that thick.

You don't need much. And its Forever After that do a great gizoogle search on both glues. Per

At the risk of opening a can of worms... Other than the messy factor - what else is wrong with gorilla glue?

I like a gloss polyurethane finish on my projects, so I really like Gorilla Glue. (it doesn't show up as white splotches under poly if you miss a bit, like regular wood glue does) Cleaning up the foam as it foams out is enough to try my patience. I tried it that way once, and it was a pain in the neck. Let it finish foaming. (up to about 90 minutes) Not too long after that, scrape...

Folks, It just my opinion. But take a lookee here and here then do a search here on SMC for what Bob Smalser has to say. Then, If I may be so bold, why on earth in woodworking would you want any kind of glue not exactly where you put it? Just saying. Per

One way to significantly reduce the foaming aspects of polyurethane glue is to NOT dampen the surfaces prior to applying the glue. Use the glue sparingly so that all surfaces are coted, but squeeze out when clamped should be very minimal. I have found joints made without the wetting seem to have stronger joints, because the faoming is not as great. There is more than enough ...

I'm with Per. PL. I use it alot, and it has never let me down. PL has a full line of adhesives, but most people reconize PL 400. P.S. Liquid nails=