1st Generation Ram Forum (1989 - 1993) | Forum profile

I had about 210k on mine before I upgraded. So I put about 20k on with the pump turned up. They still ran good, I just needed bigger sticks. If I was going to put them back in, I would get them pop tested and reshimmed if they needed it.

Sounds overcharged to me!If you are still seeing bubbles,that doesn't necessarily mean you are undercharged.Confirm your Condensor is 100% clean before charging by site-glass.Did you also replace the metering device and clean out all the old oil and flush thoroughly? Also,is that reading while idling and running max cool?Rev your diesel up to about 1500 and check pressures ...

Yes you have to energize the solenoid as well as have the main positive post energized to have the starter spin. To check the solenoid you just need to energize the solenoid, and the starter won't spin.

When you know approx. cost would like to know and see if I can afford it.

My vacuum warning light started coming on at idle, (idle speed is good). I read the shop manual for advice, seemed like it could be the switch. So bought one from the dealer, easy install, however the light is coming on sooner now, and goes away as soon as I drive away. Brakes working fine and the vacuum line to the heater/air conditioning controls working well. What do I check next? ...

Fleetguard # is 3831852-S you can get them through Geno's here: FLEETGUARD - REPLACEMENT WATER-IN-FUEL SENSOR (89-96 DODGE)-Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage

That black rubber tube is simply a vent for the fuel air control. The injection pump is leaking fuel into this section of the pump via the fuel pin/O ring. The pump top must be removed and the O ring replaced. The pump top consisting of the pump top section. The entire top. The part of the pump the contains the throttle shaft and linkages to name a few. This is going to take some work on ...

RDBuck I will have one as of this Saturday if you are still interested. Its on a 92 D350 LE. Let me know and I will email you some pics.

steering box who makes the best steering box for the 92 4wd i realy need to replace mine and what do they cost , __________________ 92 w250 converted to nv 4500 five speed

I don't recognize that number. That isn't the part number. They may be easier to prime, but I haven't had to prime the fuel system after a filter R&R. You'd want the 3936320 piston lift. The P-Pump lift is 3936316

When you know approx. cost would like to know and see if I can afford it.

i got my steering shaft from summit racing paid 210.00 including shipping

steering box who makes the best steering box for the 92 4wd i realy need to replace mine and what do they cost , __________________ 92 w250 converted to nv 4500 five speed

Need a Dually! Well did a stupid thing and went to pa and picked up my new 28 ft enclosed trailer with my friends 2008 cummins6.7 4x4 singlecab DRW. what a difference pulling a trailer with a dually! would love to convert my 93 srw 350 to dual wheels or do you guys suggest i upgrade to a newer year? also i let wife drive truck ...

The pipe nipple which the filter threads onto has a shoulder. That shoulder holds the heater in place. Unthread the pipe nipple and change out the O ring (quad ring) A small drag link end is used to turn the pipe as it has a large screwdriver slot in the end. You can also delete the heater by way of a different pipe niple. I have part numbers for the items if interested.

I had about 210k on mine before I upgraded. So I put about 20k on with the pump turned up. They still ran good, I just needed bigger sticks. If I was going to put them back in, I would get them pop tested and reshimmed if they needed it.

Sounds overcharged to me!If you are still seeing bubbles,that doesn't necessarily mean you are undercharged.Confirm your Condensor is 100% clean before charging by site-glass.Did you also replace the metering device and clean out all the old oil and flush thoroughly? Also,is that reading while idling and running max cool?Rev your diesel up to about 1500 and check pressures ...

Yes you have to energize the solenoid as well as have the main positive post energized to have the starter spin. To check the solenoid you just need to energize the solenoid, and the starter won't spin.

Looks pretty typical for a bypassed/Amsoiled sample - but could probably change the TP roll at more like 3K miles, unless your driving is mostly longer distance freeway miles...

Tim, how you gonna keep the dust down now? Yup, need stacks! They let the neighborhood know when you're plowing. Just an idea, remember the spacer/ coupler used in the mid 80's trucks with no lockouts? Went in the hub and coupled the shaft to the hub? I wonder if one of those would work? Depends on the splines, of course. Might be a temporary fix. Might also blow the hub all to heck too.