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I strongly agree with steve. A new oil cap is and should perform without a problem. There is no need to invent and put gasket sealent on it, that is just asking for trouble down the road. Keep it simple and make sure your oil ventilation are functioning the way they are supposed to as stated above.

I assume that number is engraved/scratched into the injectors but it's not the part number. There is a Rochester/Delphi number on them but you may have to pull then to see it. For example 17113742 = 75lb/hr low impedance

Quote: Originally Posted by KevinBoosted My question is why not just go with an ACT or Exedy? Even SBR or Centerforce? Why Ebay? If people are grenading parts and sitting in place slipping...why take the chance? Do it right the first time No one has had anything bad to say about the stage 4, and it's crazy cheap compared to what I got. Oh hindsight.....

Quote: Originally Posted by jrohner There are many things it could be, but low compression probably has nothing to do with it. That compression is not even low enough to notice by how it runs. The first things I would do would be to replace the fuel filter and check to see if the air filter is dirty. The next thing I would probably check would be the ECU (capacitors go bad quite often). Do you have a data logger of any kind? Is the CEL (check...

Good luck driving that thing in the snow. I was using rain tires last time I went to the mountain, lodge is at 6kft and I had no problem blowing through 6" of snow in the parking lot. Had some honda blow by us line of 6 cars behind the plow truck, vtec the whole way. I passed him when we got to the parking lot, he was barely moving and I was laughing in his face.

or buy an AFPR with a gauge built in. Kill two birds with one stone you know? I believe they sell them would be a much easier way to go about it. If it smells like raw fuel your obviously dumping too much. We had a similar issue when turboing a previous car i owned. AFPR fixed her up real quick. I was running nearly double what i should have been.

If the PCV valve vents crank pressure right? If the PCV valve is leaking out of the box... does that not mean it is venting pressure constantly? Or does it work some other way that I do not understand? Explain in detail please. I too have oil leaking, and I have two seals around my oem cap... its a TIGHT seal but does not stop the oil unfortunately.

Its not technically a CAS, its the cam position sensor? Its the hall effect one that gets its reading off of the exhaust cam gear. Thats a good idea, I need to replace the timing belt anyway though, and we were going to double check that the crank and oil pump marks were correctly aligned. Might replace the crank sensor while everything is off, just for piece of mind.

kinda a little bit off topic but still on the same subject, what is the best/cheapest way to do a 1g bov swap. i have a stock 1g bov and a blitz bov (both from my old 1g) and i have the little 8in peice of pipe that the bov mounts to but it is so much smaller that 2g piping.

but then again if your going to shoot for 400 why not get a gt30 or hta 35r and youll easily make 400?