E21 Technical | Forum profile

Connect the new one where the quiet one is?

already doubled up the earths on the engine used the 323 and the 325 one. so no problems there. how can i check there is power to the coil? should it be positive on one side when off then both sides when on or sumin

austin25uk wrote: already doubled up the earths on the engine used the 323 and the 325 one. so no problems there. how can i check there is power to the coil? should it be positive on one side when off then both sides when on or sumin get a multimeter and tap it to the neg and pos - + then turn the key to on position, when you should see voltage then your getting it there, then turn to start the car if it goes dead on the multimeter the coil...

Yes It's been done but dont expect much change out of 3k to get it fabricated Jason

austin25uk wrote: when i get round to welding my diff, i think traveling in any sort of straight line will start to become and issue lol

I connected it but it sounded the same. IE not loud enough! Unless water got into it an messed it up?

Agreed M40 is a pointless swap. Negligible reward for going through the effort and expense of an engine conversion.

It's always the details that take the time up.

Got the new cam and rocker fitted today. Took it to A.G.A. Engineering in Artarmon. The guy was pretty clued up on M20 engines. Was suggesting different cams and head - block combinations.. much like the suggestions on here.. and gave me lots of info on breaking the new cam in... wish I'd gone there first.

Here's a comment for the initial poster. I highly suggest peeking at the ETM for the 2.7 motor. Using the 3 or 4 pages related to the engine loom, it will be very easy to trace which wires go to C101, and what they are for. From there, all you need to do is to connect them to the appopriate wires from your chassis. RUN position START position Alternator light in cluster Fuel pump Coolant temp gauge in cluster Oil pressure light in...