TDI & Diesel Forum | Forum profile

Find out what seal is leaking. Diesel on the timing belt sounds like it is probably the shaft seal. If it is replacing this seal is a lot easier than changing a transmission. I have done both and I would change the seal. Might also buy the other car for $200.

could it be the baffle inside the valve cover?

The CK block is the dreaded 1.5l version, 50hp at 4400RPM, 66 ft-lbs at 2800 RPM. I say "dreaded" because it was VW's first pass at their diesel design... it's prone to cracked blocks and the bigger castings, pistons, rings etc are getting hard to find. Having said that, if the one you have is in good condition and you're running it at reduced power it will probably continue to run forever. ...

After searching far and wide and long, I found another engine which ended up being no good either. Looks like head gasket failed and cylinders 2 and 3 were trying to meet each other in the middle. The deck of the engine block on this one was corroded between #2 and #3 which would have meant machining down the deck to get it flat, and then depending on how much off there, a stack of head ...

Pick up some PowerService at Crappy Tire.. Grey bottle if I'm not mistaken...

Don't get desperate and buy one from Prothe. It'll either leak worse, or just break. There is 0 pressure in that line so a lot of people have spliced in oil rated and heat rated rubber sections.

Can you post a pic of the turbo outlet?

Take the cover off the timing belt. Check that it still has tension. Who did the TB job? Were all the rollers, the tensioner, the water pump, and the stretch bolts replaced? Were the correct tools used? How cold is it where you are? Gelled fuel is always a possibility in the winter.

A lot of guys run the IDI manifold with a custom adapter plate.. But you'll need to most likely re-clock the turbo so the feed line is within 15 degrees of vertical. You'll most likely have to drill new holes for the vnt ring to line up properly.. A drop in solution is a lot less of a hassle(vnt17, 17/22, 1756 hybrid, etc etc)

I can't see the pic, but it's most likely the clip style connector that the PD uses for the lower IC connection to the compressor housing...

Don't get desperate and buy one from Prothe. It'll either leak worse, or just break. There is 0 pressure in that line so a lot of people have spliced in oil rated and heat rated rubber sections.

2001 5speed 50+mpg

could it be the baffle inside the valve cover?

very common problem, the pump seals need replaced.

Actually an easy fix---but you keep heating that head up beyond it's limits and age, you will find you might be BUYING a new head $$$$ in the near future Repair it

ether in the intake. or starting fluid

Can you post a pic of the turbo outlet?

ooooh I like

Don't know if this helps, but when I had a leaking pump overflow line, I used 5/16" fuel line.

After searching far and wide and long, I found another engine which ended up being no good either. Looks like head gasket failed and cylinders 2 and 3 were trying to meet each other in the middle. The deck of the engine block on this one was corroded between #2 and #3 which would have meant machining down the deck to get it flat, and then depending on how much off there, a stack of head ...