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Traditional Aircraft Engines | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Traditional Aircraft Engines on http://www.vansairforce.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Traditional Aircraft Engines, located on the Message Board at http://www.vansairforce.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Traditional Aircraft Engines" on the Message Board at http://www.vansairforce.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Traditional Aircraft Engines:
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Week
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Month
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3 Months
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Threads:
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26
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71
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236
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Post:
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63
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188
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723
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Traditional Aircraft Engines Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Cooling plenum and oil cooler...
Published (2009-11-30 16:22:00)
It was brought to my attention that I did not ask which oil cooler you used. That was a good point as that could significantly skew the results. To those of you who have a Sam/Will James plenum and cowl, would you please elaborate on your setup? Please include your cooler location, scat tubing size, and which oil cooler you are using. Thanks.
user's latest post:
Cooling plenum and oil cooler...
Published (2009-11-30 16:58:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by Bubblehead Why are shutters necessary? When the oil is too cold the Vernatherm is open and oil bypasses the oil cooler. Apparently some oil still circulates through the cooler even with the Vernatherm wide open? Yes, some still circulates. I believe it's to prevent a sludge buildup, but don't quote me on that. L.Adamson
user's latest post:
Cooling plenum and oil cooler...
Published (2009-11-30 09:04:00)
Why are shutters necessary? When the oil is too cold the Vernatherm is open and oil bypasses the oil cooler. Apparently some oil still circulates through the cooler even with the Vernatherm wide open?
user's latest post:
Head scratcher!! Acessory/Vacuum...
Published (2009-11-29 12:18:00)
Hi Charlie, I'm trying to put an alternator on 2 different planes. 1.IO-320 e2a on the governor pad. 2.AEIO-540 D4A5 on the governor pad I don't know what plane drove the vacuum pump off of the governor pad! The part I'm looking for will drive a vacuum pump from the governor pad on the lower back of the engine.(But I will put an SD-8 alternator there instead) Thanks,Dave
user's latest post:
Yet another sniffle valve question
Published (2009-11-30 19:38:00)
researching will slow you down. but knowing why you're doing something is so much better than not.
user's latest post:
Yet another sniffle valve question
Published (2009-11-29 01:00:00)
I don't have one on the horizontal induction sump either. Mattituck told me I didn't need one..presumably less drainback on a fi'd motor maybe?
user's latest post:
Cooling plenum and oil cooler...
Published (2009-11-27 10:11:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by L.Adamson Did you install the shutter on the front or back of the cooler? I'm just finishing mine tomorrow. It's on the front with a control knob on the panel. Just wondering since you mentioned the aluminum tape on the backside. L.Adamson --- RV6A I installed it on the front. The aluminum on the back didn't seem to help much, so I managed to fit it between the oil cooler and the plenum. I've...
user's latest post:
Superior Air Parts Owners /...
Published (2009-11-27 15:22:00)
...I suggested that it would be "nice" if they would post some relevant info to this web site. The person I was talking to agreed, indicating the task was on their to-do list, but it has not been done yet. And no, the deal with Lycoming did not go through. Lycoming did not get parts, IP, nada. I have to believe that it is in Superior's best interest (and mine of course since I have a Superior XP engine) to let all of us...
user's latest post:
Superior Air Parts Owners /...
Published (2009-11-28 11:08:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by breister It is my understanding that they "Owe" one additional XP-400 engine to the current owner of "Unleashed." I am writing to him now to make him aware of this engine. That would still leave a nice RV for sale minus an engine. Well, per the contract I was owed an engine.. But, since I filed a claim as an unsecured creditor in bankruptcy court, they don't owe me an engine...
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Latest active threads on Traditional Aircraft Engines::
Started 5 days, 17 hours ago (2009-11-29 16:43:00)
by penguin
Have you called Larry Vetterman? Pete
Started 6 days, 9 hours ago (2009-11-29 01:00:00)
by frankh
I don't have one on the horizontal induction sump either. Mattituck told me
I didn't need one..presumably less drainback on a fi'd motor maybe?
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-25 19:54:00)
by frankh
on the firewall, but it does not cool that great...My buddy has his on the firewall with a 3" hose and it seems to cool better.
Frank
Started 5 days, 12 hours ago (2009-11-29 21:42:00)
by Kyle Boatright
Seems high to me considering what it'll cost you to buy all the stuff that isn't included.
Is a carb included? How about rods, cam followers, hydraulic adjusters, mag gears, pushrods and tubes, etc? Those things alone could easily set you back $1500. Add that to $6k for the other stuff you listed plus bearings, gaskets, and someone's time to assemble it, and you're looking at a $15k ...
Started 3 weeks, 5 days ago (2009-11-09 05:23:00)
by ronschreck
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArVeeNiner
I bought the $11 heat sheild from Van's. You can see it on the left but now that I've rerouted everything, it doesn't do a heck of a lot. Then, using Van's design as a guide, I made my own out of a piece of galvanized sheet but I made it much longer. I put it at the closest point and you can ...
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-26 23:02:00)
by nucleus
Did you talk to Bill at B&C?
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-26 23:01:00)
by nucleus
You have the flexibility with 18mm option, but I would go for the 14mm. Running big-gapped cheap NGK plugs that are near-impossible to foul with powerful dual electronic ignitions makes for a easy-starting, economical-to-run engine. If that is what you want, then the adaptors are just a pain in the butt to deal with every time you pull a spark plug. This is where I live.
Hans
Started 3 months ago (2009-09-02 06:58:00)
by mahlon_r
The Brantly deal went down. Here is the ext of SAP announcement on 8-27.
"Yesterday, the acquisition plan presented by The Brantly Group was approved by the court. In approximately 30 days everything should be final and Superior will emerge out of bankruptcy. All of us here at Superior look forward to working along side of you, our valued customers, to take care of the aviation community....
Started 1 week, 5 days ago (2009-11-23 07:36:00)
by mahlon_r
I think that you should hook up the mechanical guage before you do anything.
Good luck,
Mahlon
'The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk.
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Hot threads for last week on Traditional Aircraft Engines::
Started 6 days, 9 hours ago (2009-11-29 01:00:00)
by frankh
I don't have one on the horizontal induction sump either. Mattituck told me
I didn't need one..presumably less drainback on a fi'd motor maybe?
Started 5 days, 12 hours ago (2009-11-29 21:42:00)
by Kyle Boatright
Seems high to me considering what it'll cost you to buy all the stuff that isn't included.
Is a carb included? How about rods, cam followers, hydraulic adjusters, mag gears, pushrods and tubes, etc? Those things alone could easily set you back $1500. Add that to $6k for the other stuff you listed plus bearings, gaskets, and someone's time to assemble it, and you're looking at a $15k ...
Started 3 months ago (2009-09-02 06:58:00)
by mahlon_r
The Brantly deal went down. Here is the ext of SAP announcement on 8-27.
"Yesterday, the acquisition plan presented by The Brantly Group was approved by the court. In approximately 30 days everything should be final and Superior will emerge out of bankruptcy. All of us here at Superior look forward to working along side of you, our valued customers, to take care of the aviation community....
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-25 19:54:00)
by frankh
on the firewall, but it does not cool that great...My buddy has his on the firewall with a 3" hose and it seems to cool better.
Frank
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-26 23:02:00)
by nucleus
Did you talk to Bill at B&C?
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-26 23:01:00)
by nucleus
You have the flexibility with 18mm option, but I would go for the 14mm. Running big-gapped cheap NGK plugs that are near-impossible to foul with powerful dual electronic ignitions makes for a easy-starting, economical-to-run engine. If that is what you want, then the adaptors are just a pain in the butt to deal with every time you pull a spark plug. This is where I live.
Hans
Started 5 days, 17 hours ago (2009-11-29 16:43:00)
by penguin
Have you called Larry Vetterman? Pete
Started 3 weeks, 5 days ago (2009-11-09 05:23:00)
by ronschreck
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArVeeNiner
I bought the $11 heat sheild from Van's. You can see it on the left but now that I've rerouted everything, it doesn't do a heck of a lot. Then, using Van's design as a guide, I made my own out of a piece of galvanized sheet but I made it much longer. I put it at the closest point and you can ...
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