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Quote: Originally Posted by foggyjames I'm not too hot on doing the NM / lbft calculation in my head...so I thought 485 NM would be far too low to get 417bhp, but I just did the conversion (I make it 357 lbft), and see that my guess was wrong That seems quite low to be causing a problem...we made 300lbft at 20psi 417 hp/ 485 Nm at 12 psi on ron 95.

At 12psi...love it cheers James

I've got NO driveline vibrations whatsoever with HD engine mounts, full poly front to back, Koni SA's, etc. so I'd guess there's something else playing into your issue. When you get around to it certainly shoot me a pm and we can see what's going on.

Was speaking from a heat point of view, not current wise. How hot does the actual socket get? I don't know, but not hot enough to melt the solder as it's been tried by 240keith. IF the socket were to get hot enough to melt the solder is what I was getting at. Three people, three different methods to choose from, they all produce the same result.

my logic in using solder was along the lines of Homers... at the time being, ive had the lights on for about 3 hours(longest) and i havent seen any problems... but i also didnt make a solid line of solder... i made a bridge between the posts, with room between / underneath the connection... i pulled the bulbs out yesterday, and they all looked fine, and exactly as they did when i put em in... keith

Quote: Originally Posted by J2_ I think he means 417 bhp / 485 NM of torque... I assume so as well. I am interested to see if mine lives any better than average with the heavy fluid in it.

How could that be off? I used the 740 diff cover

i painted mine and did the metal trick on my 81. i dont think its supposed to have dual fillament bulbs, but it has for a while now. it works, and makes a huge difference. im sorta concerned that the housing will melt. what do u think? also, i used a soda can for metal, which as it turns outis too flimsey. ill try something thicker when i have time.

i searched, and from what i could find, this hasn't been covered. i realize this is pretty easy, but if you're not particularly familiar with wiring and such, it can seem like a more daunting task than it is. there are probably easier alternators to do this swap with, but i used what i had laying around: vw parts! but this is more focused on the wiring itself than the alternator in question. Firstly: unhook the wiring from the...

Thanks for taking the time. I will use this on my next conversion (my '68 122) when the new engine goes in. I probably could have figured it out, but why reinvent the wheel. Joel