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Quote: Originally Posted by Wavehog33 Scale, that is one very nice resto!!! Very nice, and done in no time, not even winter yet. You posted in another blog to replace the clutch main bearing on the transmission shaft. Part # 93306-20535-00. This part is not available through OEM anymore, If you replaced yours, where did you find it? I am checking with a local bearing shop tomorrow but just trying to see if you know of a place that has this...

Quote: Originally Posted by RatBug Thanks I did a little reading in the manual I have which claims to cover XL75s and XL100s from 1975 to 1990 and in the stator testing portion they left out the stator resistance specs on the 1975 to 1978 models. Any idea what they should be? Well, I don't have the specs at my fingertips, but to begin with, the specific values are less important than finding out if the stator windings are shorted to...

if i recall. the issue the AHRMA gods had was with Rocky mountains letting the kids race at the lunch break. it didnt cramp, hold up, or mix with the vintage racing, in anyway. matter fact, gave us old guys something to watch. i supported it, and still would. they said to stop, and we wouldnt, they spilt sheets with us. so be it.. i saw nothing wrong with letting the little guys run during the lunch break. took a total if 30 mins for them to...

Quote: Originally Posted by jleblanc ...30 years of changing temperatures metal can fatigue much less the fact that it has probably been dropped several times scratched and way not, the time it spent on a shelf is not good, plus it was most likely a cast piston which is not very good anyway. stock is good but come on people we have better processes for making things now. Changing (room) temps ? Dropped several times ? Forging is a new process...

Remove all Advertisements The air screw has no limiter tab, or maybe it was filed off by a p/o. So nothing to impede adjustment. I got it started yeterday (about 30 kicks), got it warmed up and re-adjusted it as well as the idle, and it starts a little better now. It is right around 1 1/4 turns out, which makes it run the smoothest at idle. Still have not ruled out the stator or coil as has been suggested. But the spark looks ok, similar to...

Just a thought are the cases manufactured in pairs? Ive just bought what looks like a good RHS on ebay, I hope it matches up?! With you on the loctite, colour is not the issue the number is! Scalejockey says he uses 648. We use 271 on the DRZ primary nut, that stops it shifting!

Scale, that is one very nice resto!!! Very nice, and done in no time, not even winter yet. You posted in another blog to replace the clutch main bearing on the transmission shaft. Part # 93306-20535-00. This part is not available through OEM anymore, If you replaced yours, where did you find it? I am checking with a local bearing shop tomorrow but just trying to see if you know of a place that has this bearing. thanks again, beautiful bike!!

Quote: Originally Posted by jleblanc i raced arma because my dad did and we always went to the races together btw i started racing ahrma when i was 15 i look like a 12 year old but i didn't say anything and they never asked to see my birth certificate racerxr why the hostility to father son outings at the vintage racing my father was living his dream racing the bike he wanted to as a kid and me and my brother racing his elsinores Same...

Sweet. Did you clear coat the fender after he signed it? I would. Wouldn't want that to rub off.

Quote: Originally Posted by rayivers Yes. The DLS shoes (Yamaha P/N 3R5-W2535-00-00) have the same arc as the SLS ones (322-W2535-00-00) but are slightly shorter to make room for the extra actuator cam and pivot pin. They may also be a tiny bit narrower as well. Just for what it's worth... I'd go with OEM Yamaha brake shoes. My experiences with aftermarket units have been just plain depressing. Ray Thanks for the info. All I need...