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They fell down the pushrod tubes, and went into the sump.

I have a set of them NOS 88mm stroker thickwall MAHLE. I just do not have the heart to use them. It was given me by the local V8 machine shop that went Chapt 11 and it has been on their shelf since the early 70's. I couldn't believe it.

Matthew wrote: If you are going to do a 1776 SP then ditch the 1200 (40hp) case. As I said earlier you can make a replacement 1600 case look like a 40hp case by stamping it with 40hp numbers. Easier said than done over here. replacement cases don't grow on trees and they come in the same numbers as you guys but the exchage rate sucks. basically a replacement case costs north of $1000 (nearly £700) and I don't care how flamed I get,...

No expert here.... Still researching it for my first attempt to build system for carburetor(s) equipped engine....... Probably a lot of good information here.. http://www.autosportlabs.org/index.php Dale

Ding Ding Ding. You guessed it. They are aluminum bearings! no layers at all. Except the split center main bearing that is. It is almost always a steel backed bearing with copper and babbit like most bearings.

Pull that rocker assembly back off and check the valve stems height with a straight edge. That one valve may be hung partially open which would explain the extra turns on your adjusting screw to get the clearance right.

modok wrote: I put over 10,000 miles on stock pushrods and an engle 120, shift at 5700! It can be done, but I was also using fancy oval wire conical valve springs. 90lb closed, 220 open. It can be done! The first sign I had of the ends pushing in was was a sharp edge building up around the base of the pushrod ends its not really noticeable other than that so you may want to keep an eye out for it, if it happens you can feel it if you run your...

A buddy has those. They have a wicked cool sound more like a V-8. They are not a performance exhaust you will loose HP just like the dual Buggy exhaust.

anyone wanna trade a 40 for a 44