Beetle - Late Model/Super | Forum profile

it's possible... take a pic _________________ 1970 VW Beetle 1776cc MOFOCO w/hydraulic lifters, 042 heads and dual dellorto's "It's better to be hated for what you are than loved for what you are not"

Saach sells them and you can get them over at aircooled.net

If it were me, I would buy a well built and counterbalanced 1776 with some small dual carbs. In a beetle it should be pretty peppy and should go up Parley's Canyon in 4th with the stock tranny and still get decent fuel economy. Driving a beelte is sort of like having sex. It is not the first one done that wins.

bugninva wrote: that is a very reasonable price... once you start adding up parts, then take into account machine work, balancing, etc, that is a great price... and you get the piece of mind of having a proven engine proffessional doing the work... like Glenn said, Call the man and talk to him... This is how it arrived. This is it being broken in before the dyno tuning. I can tell you it starts on the first click, idles at 800rpm and has...

ed stanley wrote: You can get that noise from a cracked fan center hub - where the big nut clamps it onto the shaft. I chased that kind of noise for months till I discovered the crack. Replaced the fan, and counted my blessings that it hadn't failed completely and left me stranded. I will check that tonight and loosen the belt up more. Thanks for the help guys! _________________ 'Life's tough.....it's even tougher if...

You should be fine - that's exactly what I've used in my '71 Convertible for about 4 years, when I swapped over my 1835DP. That engine came out of my '70, so I had to remove the PP center ring - like your photo shows - for my 1971. And I do use the three-arm pressure plate like in your photo; for some reason I still like that style better than diaphragm PP, don't know if anyone sells new finger type these days or not....

It is also all about how you drive, if I make a concious decision to focus on mileage, like on a long trip, I can make 35-37, if I just upgraded something and am having fun around town, I can make 15-20 if I try. Steady foot is THE KEY. Accel pump drinks the gas..

Cusser wrote: homeworld8118 wrote: I have a 1600cdp that I am working on a partial rebuild for my 73 super. When I went to remove the old tins some of the tin screws broke of in the heads. I tried craftsman extractor bits, but they also broke off. So I would assume mo only option now is to drill where the screw is and tap out for a new screw, or is there a better way without replacing the heads?? Thanks, Tad Murphy Drill and re-tap. Yeah but...

PIC's _________________ Quote from Star Trek Enterprise: Tucker: I dont like pushing the engines this hard, they're runnin at 110 percent. T'pal: They are rated to 120 percent. Tucker: Yeah well my underpants are flame resistant, but ya don't see me going around lighting myself on fire!

keifernet wrote: Cusser wrote: homeworld8118 wrote: I have a 1600cdp that I am working on a partial rebuild for my 73 super. When I went to remove the old tins some of the tin screws broke of in the heads. I tried craftsman extractor bits, but they also broke off. So I would assume mo only option now is to drill where the screw is and tap out for a new screw, or is there a better way without replacing the heads?? Thanks, Tad Murphy Drill and...