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Remodeling | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Remodeling on http://ths.gardenweb.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Remodeling, located on the Message Board at http://ths.gardenweb.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Remodeling" on the Message Board at http://ths.gardenweb.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Remodeling:
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3 Months
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Threads:
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24
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120
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384
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Post:
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38
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232
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676
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Remodeling Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
building a loft (14' span)
Published (2009-12-02 00:04:00)
The ties should be at every 4 ft. and at the top plates for such small rafters but you'll probably be OK if it never snows and a tree doesn't fall on it.
user's latest post:
How do I create this texture on...
Published (2009-12-02 07:52:00)
"Appears that a sponge is dipped into some slightly thinned compound and dabbed on." And the way to cover a large area quickly is with a sponge roller. I still have a couple hanging around in the basement. Texture paint and a sponge roller produces this affect also.
user's latest post:
building a loft (14' span)
Published (2009-12-02 10:15:00)
Rafter ties,(called collar ties out here), have more to do with "racking" than load. Properly sized ridge/rafters or engineesed trusses for snow loads.
user's latest post:
using drywall over brick fireplace
Published (2009-11-28 18:14:00)
We plant to put a mantle up also and probably should have said that first. So the wall boards will be at least 14" away from the opening, with marble tile being inside the mantel closest to the opening. Do you know what adhesive to use? What is GWB, please?
user's latest post:
do I need a plumber--new Franke...
Published (2009-11-28 19:38:00)
sierraeast, no clips. Is there a way to check to see if the underside is level ? Thanks again :)
user's latest post:
interior doors - craftsman style
Published (2009-11-29 20:27:00)
thanks - I have looked at Simpson - for a primed 3 panel door it's close to 300 each....guess I'm looking for a much more economical choice. If you have any, please let me know! Thanks!
user's latest post:
1000w = 1 KW right...How Much..?
Published (2009-11-29 19:47:00)
Am I wrong here...if my lectric rate is rising to .10 per kw hour, does this mean I can run my elctric fin heater on the med setting (1000W) for an hour for ten cents....sounds hard to believe That I can run this sucker for two hours a morning..to warm the bedroom...for $1.40 a week....?
user's latest post:
How do I create this texture on...
Published (2009-12-02 06:51:00)
Looks like a sponge was used. What I would do is practice on some scrap pieces until you got a good match. Appears that a sponge is dipped into some slightly thinned compound and dabbed on. Sponge, roller, or other, do whatever gives you the match.
user's latest post:
Master Bath with door to deck?
Published (2009-11-23 09:19:00)
Has anyone ever heard of or seen a master bathroom with doors leading to a deck? We are remodeling our Master bedroom/bath and are trying to determine the best layout. We have a post and beam home to we are trying to make the most of the ceiling lines. Any thoughts on having a door to a deck in the bathroom? We could have the bedroom part with the door leading to the deck, but are thinking due to the layout it would be better to have the...
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Latest active threads on Remodeling::
Started 1 day, 7 hours ago (2009-12-02 23:20:00)
by worthy
You may have to fabricate a transition piece from stock oak boards. Check with a local hardwood flooring supplier. They may have a simpler idea.
Started 1 day, 13 hours ago (2009-12-02 17:24:00)
by jon1270
No, this is not going to be taken care of by the normal gaps between parts. The hinge-side gap depends on the hinges used, assuming they're set flush into the door and jamb. In my house (1930s) there's hardly any gap at all at the hinge side. On the doorknob side, the gap is maybe 1/8". Get the actual doors and build to fit. Personally, I'd tear out the existing frames and rebuild them. ...
Started 2 days ago (2009-12-02 06:51:00)
by drywall_diy_guy
Looks like a sponge was used. What I would do is practice on some scrap pieces until you got a good match. Appears that a sponge is dipped into some slightly thinned compound and dabbed on. Sponge, roller, or other, do whatever gives you the match.
Started 1 day, 20 hours ago (2009-12-02 10:15:00)
by sierraeast
Rafter ties,(called collar ties out here), have more to do with "racking" than load. Properly sized ridge/rafters or engineesed trusses for snow loads.
Started 5 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-28 16:11:00)
by macv
Simpson has what you need. Here is a link that might be useful: Simpson doors
Started 4 days, 6 hours ago (2009-11-30 00:08:00)
by drywall_diy_guy
Yes, that is true.1000W = 1KW. 1KW for 1 hour = 1KW-HR, 1 KW for X hours = X KW-HRs. So it costs you a dime per hour to run this heater. $1.40 for 14 hours. Seems like hardly anything, but if you have a frig, oven, many lights, and appliances ALL running at the same time, it adds up.
Started 5 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-28 12:24:00)
by sierraeast
Undermounts have different install methods and it could be that the sink is not tight around the perimeter against the underside of the countertop. You stated the counters are level, but the sink install underside might not be. This is more common when the installers use clips without epoxy.
Started 5 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-28 16:08:00)
by macv
If you intend to cover the entire fireplace add studs in the opening and span over the brick. If you don't intend to cover the fireplace opening, you will need to use a non-combustible material that close to the firebox. Is there not room for strapping behind the GWB?
Started 2 months ago (2009-09-29 00:16:00)
by homebound
I would choose door #4. Especially make sure you have qualified folks to deal with the water seepage (and maybe even the pest entry). You could do that yourself to a certain extent by inspecting all around the perimeter of the house, especially above the foundation wall, then sealing all gaps.
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Hot threads for last week on Remodeling::
Started 5 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-28 12:24:00)
by sierraeast
Undermounts have different install methods and it could be that the sink is not tight around the perimeter against the underside of the countertop. You stated the counters are level, but the sink install underside might not be. This is more common when the installers use clips without epoxy.
Started 5 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-28 16:11:00)
by macv
Simpson has what you need. Here is a link that might be useful: Simpson doors
Started 5 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-28 16:08:00)
by macv
If you intend to cover the entire fireplace add studs in the opening and span over the brick. If you don't intend to cover the fireplace opening, you will need to use a non-combustible material that close to the firebox. Is there not room for strapping behind the GWB?
Started 2 days ago (2009-12-02 06:51:00)
by drywall_diy_guy
Looks like a sponge was used. What I would do is practice on some scrap pieces until you got a good match. Appears that a sponge is dipped into some slightly thinned compound and dabbed on. Sponge, roller, or other, do whatever gives you the match.
Started 4 days, 6 hours ago (2009-11-30 00:08:00)
by drywall_diy_guy
Yes, that is true.1000W = 1KW. 1KW for 1 hour = 1KW-HR, 1 KW for X hours = X KW-HRs. So it costs you a dime per hour to run this heater. $1.40 for 14 hours. Seems like hardly anything, but if you have a frig, oven, many lights, and appliances ALL running at the same time, it adds up.
Started 1 day, 7 hours ago (2009-12-02 23:20:00)
by worthy
You may have to fabricate a transition piece from stock oak boards. Check with a local hardwood flooring supplier. They may have a simpler idea.
Started 1 day, 20 hours ago (2009-12-02 10:15:00)
by sierraeast
Rafter ties,(called collar ties out here), have more to do with "racking" than load. Properly sized ridge/rafters or engineesed trusses for snow loads.
Started 3 weeks, 1 day ago (2009-11-11 13:55:00)
by festusbodine
See the post adjacent to this - ByeByeTinySadKitchen. We're in the midst of a large 2nd floor addition with bump out in the back as well. Since our old electrical panel was on the rear and now it's gone... For a huge reno like that, really doesn't make sense to live in the house. We have close friends who invited us to take over their other bedroom, but not everyone is so lucky. As for ...
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