Problems & Fixes | Forum profile

G-Whiz wrote: mik13usa wrote: Confirmed! The aluminum block with cooling fins is the ignitor! Thanks for the feedback mik13usa . It's nice to know for sure. I thought it was the fuel injector resistor??

Jen, For sure your problem is heat related. I had the exact same problem due the exhaust getting hot. The fuel was getting hot and shot out the filler when I opened it. I'm thinking of going to a fuel cell.

thanks for all the help guys took it over to my friends today i will keep u informed on wat haapens

mazade wrote: On our rebuild, which still hasn't reached any 'broken in' status(250 mi. so far), we're seeing compression numbers in the 165 to 170 range when dry, and with motor oil we did peak 200+. Question though: what kind of rings did you have put back onto your pistons? Just generic rings. Nothing worth the machine shop owner making any comments about. I had never heard of total seal rings before this last Summer,...

Kwish wrote: Cleaned all the grounds off and tried jump startin it again and still no luck, I'm thinkin about just replacing the starter next and alternator since I have 2 hopefully good spares sitting around. Any other suggestions? It sounds like you have a bad starter or a bad starter connection or a short in the cable going to the starter or a short in the ground cable from the battery. If the starter cable is not on very tight, the...

Well I work on it a little more this weekend; I installed a third thermostat from my other Metro that running at temp, both was installed correctly. It was a very nice day sat about 70 deg F and the car now runs a little hotter but the temp gauge is moving from the first line after the C to half way between the C an H, it keep doing this repeatedly . the heat is hotter that is was but not like my other Metro.

You very well could have an air pocket in the system. Run the car up on ramps or jack it up from the front, start the engine and leave the rad cap off. Keep a gallon of fresh 50/50 coolant handy and let it run. After time, it will start to push coolant out of the cap, but do not cap it! That is air pushing out. Let it burp. This could take up to 30 minutes to get all the air out.

Like Woodie says - it's always viewed from the driver's seat. Now - typically there are other differences besides the position of the bleed nipple - at least on every car I've looked at, which does not include the Metro, so I can't tell you what they are on your caliper), but the sliding hardware is usually different and the differences are not always visible. Why not do yourself a favour and get the correct caliper.

i'm running out of things to suggest just taking wild guesses here but they're better than nothing i guess i've personally never had a belt slip and i beat on it hard all day when i'm driving it but i have heard of it slipping take the cover off and line up the marks its worth a shot im doubting the coil would just give out all of the sudden but if you have a spare give it a try. check the ignition wires and cap/rotor -amer

I just searched mk1 sub-forum, found this: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=16677&hilit=timing+belt It's non-interference(you do have the 3cyl yeah?), go smack your mechanic.