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Gunsmithing and Repairs | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Gunsmithing and Repairs on http://www.thehighroad.org.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Gunsmithing and Repairs, located on the Message Board at http://www.thehighroad.org.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Gunsmithing and Repairs" on the Message Board at http://www.thehighroad.org is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Gunsmithing and Repairs:
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3 Months
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Threads:
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95
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303
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965
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Post:
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231
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2,558
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Gunsmithing and Repairs Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
black oxide after parkerizing?
Published (2009-12-04 11:43:00)
Quote: By the way, the ATF folks with whom I am acquainted do not think it is OK to move a SN. I have a BHP from a very well know custom shop. The SN was engraved above the right grip panel so they could stipple the front grip. The ATF Technical rep I spoke with said that I was not in trouble since I did not actually move the number, but it was not legal for the smith to do that. Yes, they had seen hundreds of BHPs with similar treatment....
user's latest post:
Can I change this frame?
Published (2009-12-05 13:11:00)
I think the first major problem you would have is buying a steel frame. Near as I can tell, Uberti doesn't sell frames as parts for anything it makes, or ever made. rc
user's latest post:
Double Fires and Flying Brass -...
Published (2009-12-04 16:28:00)
Hi, Major Dad, It is not commonly understood, but even with standard loads the hammer of a 1911 bounces off the grip safety. The drawings show the slide gently pushing the hammer back and down, but high speed photos tell a different story. The slide hits the hammer with a hard, fast blow, knocking it down and out of contact with the slide. It then hits the grip safety and bounces back up until it strikes the bottom of the slide forward of the...
user's latest post:
Cutting a shotgun barrel with a...
Published (2009-12-02 13:19:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by BMW2 A hose clamp around the barrel makes a great cutting guide if your using a hacksaw, even with the vent rib. Cutting along the edge of the clamp is a lot easier than using a piece of tape. Brilliant, that's the kind of tips and tricks I came here for. Thanks.
user's latest post:
A little help with a 1911
Published (2009-12-02 06:17:00)
Demitrios Very interesting read, thank you. Its going to take a while for me to think this timing thing through. Im not sure how many rounds this gun has through it, but Im sure its a lot more than 5000. This gun is totally stock except the trigger. I have not noticed any unusual wear on the frame or lugs. I will look into this, but I doubt it is the root of my problem. Thanks again Steve
user's latest post:
Revolver Restoration
Published (2009-12-04 09:53:00)
I have little free time and less skill. I will clean, polish and touch up with some cold blue. Thanks everyone. Leroy
user's latest post:
A little help with a 1911
Published (2009-12-02 15:17:00)
I didn't think it would be by itself, but what if it were a combination of timing and a few other unlikely things? If the mags are OK in other pistols then we have to rule them out as the sole cause. I only bring up the timing because I was thinking if the barrel was coming out of and back into the lugs improperly it could cause the slide to eject the spent casing and possibly allow the next round to eject rather than seat. Again and I...
user's latest post:
My new Tool.
Published (2009-12-04 10:59:00)
Thanks guys.
user's latest post:
Has anyone put a new grip safety...
Published (2009-12-05 23:44:00)
Then "drop in" is the way to go. Look for one that fits closest to the stock frame tangs and go with that. You will still have to check/adjust the fit of the trigger blocking arm. Edit to add - I don't use drop ins, but I believe that those for a Colt Commander will provide the best cosmetic fit. Check with Wilson Combat to verify.
user's latest post:
.303 case separated - headspace?
Published (2009-12-05 23:34:00)
I think it is a worn case. The chamber does not get bigger with use, although the locking lugs or their abutments in the receiver can get beaten back.
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Latest active threads on Gunsmithing and Repairs::
Started 11 hours, 1 minute ago (2009-12-06 20:46:00)
by mnrivrat
It means to completely dis-assemble if you want a proper job. Then mask off anything you don't want to get the kote on. After air dry, you can remove the masking tape prior to oven baking. Gas oven is fine , I've done them in both gas and electric ovens .
Started 14 hours, 33 minutes ago (2009-12-06 17:14:00)
by rcmodel
It can be done if you can find a gunsmith with a reamer for .410.
That might be hard to do though.
And probably more expensive then a more common 12 or 20 ream job.
Have you considered just cutting it off behind the choke and making a Cyl bore out of it.
I believe it would work quite well for 20 & under yard quail.
Or, Briley will ream & thread for choke tubes for $130 + choke ...
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-28 23:56:00)
by Sunray
"...All over the place at 15 to 20 feet..." The rifle lubed correctly?
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-29 09:19:00)
by 1911Tuner
Started 13 hours, 5 minutes ago (2009-12-06 18:42:00)
by rcmodel
Par for the course.
They weren't that great to start with.
That's one of the reasons AMT went out of business.
The pistol was an unlicensed & cheap copy of the Ruger Mark II pistol and, along with the AMT Lightning 10/22 rifle, prompted a successful trademark infringement lawsuit from Ruger that helped bankrupt the company.
Your best bet is a gun buy-back program, or a sale or trade...
Started 3 months, 1 week ago (2009-09-01 01:54:00)
by The Real Mags
Over 110 bucks for a stipped lower is pretty steep, as for a parts kit check out Del-Ton Inc. Also AR 15.com has some pretty good info on assembling an AR.
Started 1 day, 9 hours ago (2009-12-05 22:28:00)
by Jim Watson
Factory or reload?
Chambers are pretty sloppy even when headspace is correct and brass from full charge reloads does not last long. Bear in mind that for a rimmed cartridge, headspace is based entirely on the rim thickness and action clearance for it. The chamber can be oversize (as many .303s are for easy extraction in the trenches) and still show normal headspace.
The headspace repair ...
Started 19 hours, 16 minutes ago (2009-12-06 12:31:00)
by rcmodel
Nothing to do with torque.
It allowed them to make the gun thinner is all.
It makes more room on the side of the frame for the trigger linkage.
rc
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Hot threads for last week on Gunsmithing and Repairs::
Started 4 days, 20 hours ago (2009-12-02 11:04:00)
by HKUSP45C
Cutting a shotgun barrel with a vent rib
What do I need to cut a barrel down on a shotgun that has a vent rib?
I have a radial arm saw, I'm sure I'll need a special blade for it, any suggestions. Any smiths out there have advice for dealing with the vent rib so it doesn't look shoddy when the product is finished?
Finally, ...
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-29 09:19:00)
by 1911Tuner
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-28 23:56:00)
by Sunray
"...All over the place at 15 to 20 feet..." The rifle lubed correctly?
Started 4 days, 19 hours ago (2009-12-02 12:34:00)
by highorder
I don't think you'll have any luck with a black oxide dip over the parkerizing.
If you want to blast again, just restamp the serial number. No biggie, regardless of what the internet will tell you. I personally would glass bead everything and repark both pieces together if I had to have an exact color match.
Started 4 days, 14 hours ago (2009-12-02 17:13:00)
by Oro
HoosierQ,
If you read all the way through this thread, you will find most all conventional wisdom on stock refinishing, commercial or milsurp. A good thread:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=240961
Started 3 days, 4 hours ago (2009-12-04 03:20:00)
by PT1911
sounds like just a mag problem... have you disassembled and cleaned the mag? it may be as simple as a burr in the lower portion of the mag body. I wouldnt say it is a weak spring as it would be the bottom rounds not the top that would be the issue.
Started 1 day, 9 hours ago (2009-12-05 22:28:00)
by Jim Watson
Factory or reload?
Chambers are pretty sloppy even when headspace is correct and brass from full charge reloads does not last long. Bear in mind that for a rimmed cartridge, headspace is based entirely on the rim thickness and action clearance for it. The chamber can be oversize (as many .303s are for easy extraction in the trenches) and still show normal headspace.
The headspace repair ...
Started 3 days, 15 hours ago (2009-12-03 15:51:00)
by Jim Watson
What "stuff behind the side plates?" You mean stuff like the hammer, trigger, hand, cylinder stop, cylinder latch, etc? I would sure want to take the gun down to the last bit and piece before soaking it in some DIY witches' brew.
By the way, while the cylinder frame is steel, the grip frame is aluminum and will not respond to stripping or bluing.
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-29 17:56:00)
by rcmodel
Take a brass or nylon punch, or block of hardwood and drive the sight out of the dovetail left to right.
It won't be hard to do.
rc
Started 1 day, 12 hours ago (2009-12-05 19:37:00)
by BBBBill
Because of Springfield's frame tail shape, a Brown will not fit a cleanly as an S&A .220" radius or Wilson. The S&A will be far easier to fit than the Wilson with its compound radius and will require less material to be removed than any other option except a "drop-in". Be sure to get the .220" radius version that was developed especially for the Springfield.
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