Painting and bodywork | Forum profile

Could your clear have possibly blushed on you? That could account for the milky quality you describe. Regardless, I always give lacquers at least a few days of un-assisted drying time before I clear coat them. For polishing out clear, I like Meguiars show car glaze. It comes in a squeeze bottle and works really well. Bob

daikins: I found a kit that had the old paint removed with nail polish remover. There is now some ghosting on the clear canopy. Would Future clear that up? Polishing kit?   Polishing plus Future might help if the "ghosting" is just on the surface. But if the discoloration is in (rather than on ) the plastic, neither will help. Because polishing kits are expensive and time-consuming - and because polishing stresses...

Maybe I'm getting cranky in my old age, but I'd love to see the cap from a spray can, right next to some plastic sprayed with the contents of same can (directly from the can), where the mirroring of cap from the can and the mirroring of the sample are the same. Being the skeptic that I am, I don't expect to see that in the near future. The manufacturers are stretching the truth.

 I use Westley's BLECHE-WITE, I've used it with good luck in  taking paint off of clear parts.

bobss396: Man you guys ruined it for me. I LOVE to see people painting lacquer over enamel. I might be sadistic, but I get a laugh out of it when it happens to someone. I made the mistake at age 11 and it was a well-earned lesson. Success teaches you nothing. Bob If you want to you can spray lacquer on all paints... It must be dry and you need to mist your first coats....this Magnum is painted with Lacquer, Acryllics and Enamels all cleared...

I believe your problem is in your mix formula . You are too heavy on your thinner ratio . Your thinner is drying so rapidly that it is pulling the metallic together as it flashes out . Try going with a 2 : 1 paint to thinner ratio and see where that takes you ....

Now, Bob's not that old .  I have always heard that one should not use lacquer over enamel, but paints have changed over the years.  The best way to find out is to try your combination on some spare parts.  I stick with one brand per project, such as Tamiya primer, color coat and clear or Testors primer, color coat and clear- with one exception.  I have used Testors Dullcote over Tamiya (TS)...

been looking for the dry transfer lettering for the muscle cars and they like fell off the face of the earth???

You might try Model Empire; they may be the only place that might help at this point.

 the closest metal like finish i have found from a rattle can is the "metal leaf" style stuff...  but alclad II is the stuff to get if you airbrush.