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I was really tempted by a flyer from Lumber Liquidators that had beech laminate for 49 cents a SF. Still tempted.

I needed to wire/rewire a bunch of stuff in my shop, so I bought a 100' 12 gauge extension cord, cut them to length and added male and female ends. I got exactly the lengths I needed (at the time I was making them...when I knew what their exact lengths needed to be...not while standing at the borg with a list). I think I got mine on sale for $40 plus ends. Now, I was doing most of this for 220 application, so my ends were a bit pricey,...

A few shots of the roughed-in ductwork. Final hook-ups will have to wait til the rest of the toys are moved in. 8 drops, 2 will split again. 10 hook-ups plus the floor sweep. Took about 8 hours to get this far. I'm soooo glad I used OSB on the walls and ceiling. No problem screwing anything, anyplace. So.... they sell silicone sealant in 5 gallon pails? .

Make sure that the fixtures that you buy have a cold starting balast. I can't tell you the technical details of what that means, but living in Wisconsin means that I know that I need them! For what it's worth, when I first finished my shop I bought a bunch of cheap florescent fixtures from Home Depot. Within the first few years virtually every one of the balasts failed, even though they were supposed to be cold starting. I ended up...

Folks keep wanting to do this the hard way. Just two of us, my dainty wife and I, quickly mounted my unit almost 10' high up against a wall using NO jacks, no come-a-longs, no pulleys, etc. "Come on, you're kidding!" you say. Nope, it is true!!! Here's how- use two 2 x 4's that are 1/2" shorter than your ceiling height to make stilts. Determine how high you will mount the cyclone and mount two...

Sloping back to the compressor is the standard way to do it. Also having watter legs with valves to catch condensate is a great idea. Make sure you put your water trap at least 25' from the compressor. If the air is still hot, the water trap isn't as effective.

David, In my case the seller of my Hot Dawg would not sell to a consumer so I had to have a HVAC company purchase my unit and install it. My ceiling is 10 feet high and the four guys that did the install used two ladders and muscled the unit up the ladder while one guy in the attic lowered the all thread rod while the guys below threaded the rod into the unit. I don't recall what the device is called but most HVAC companies have...

Quote: Originally Posted by Ben Martin I have had this DC for about 4 months, works fine for me but I have done some upgrades. I have done the Thien seperator, stove pipe mod, Wynn filter and converted it to use 6" pipe. I have about 30' of 6" pipe hooked up to it with a single 90* bend and it SUCKS (in a good way...)! I have been considering the stovepipe mod, and upgrading to 6". Do you have any problems...

Adam, Very nice shop in the works...looks like NYW. I would think you would want to insulate the walls and ceiling, but like you, do you really want to cover up the wonderful wood. Personally, I would drywall or use OSB or ply and paint it white for maximum light. Using EMT gives you more flexibility if you change your mind about machine placement, or add machines. I personally went with the "in the wall" romex, and hopefully...

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and you can usually buy the wire or cabling whatever length that you want. They have it in big rolls and will cut to length. CHuck