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Well you asked... Poly is for floors, period. Not the best for furniture etc. Spalted lumber tends to be very absorbant. I would finish inside and out with a couple coats of de-waxed super blonde shellac, if you want no color; or an amber or garnet shellac if you want a bit of color. Once sealed with the shellac I would use a quality alkyd resin soya oil varnish like Cabot's 8000 series or Pratt & Lambert #38 (my favotrite...

"5. Varnish with Behlen Rockhard. Cut the first coat 50/50 and then 90/10 after that. Guessing 5-6 coats brushed on. Sand with 320/400 wet using water/soap between coats. Sand final coat with 800+ and then rub with compound to get the satin look" I am not familiar with the products you are using but the procedure should be the same. Finishing is not rocket science it is an easily aquired skill with basic steps to be followed....

I was just going to ask this question. I also thank you for the tip. I'm looking for the 2005 of Bob Flexner's understanding wood finishing as soon as this posts

Quote: Originally Posted by Simon Leung Scott, one more question. Shellac is not recommended to be used as a sealer under polyurethane. Do you think a shellac toner can be used over polyurethane which is what Polyshades is? Yes, you can use a shellac toner OVER your polyurethane finish with no problem. You can also use de-waxed shellac UNDER a poly finish without issue. But I also agree with Scott...lose the poly in the future. It's a...

Quote: Originally Posted by William Hutchinson I have the DVD set and consider it a tremendous reference for woodworkers learning and improving finishing techniques. I would suggest that you visit his website and watch the previews and the other free stuff. This will give you a taste of how the information is presented. The videos are not professionally produced and sound quality can be a distraction. If you want a step-by-step approach, this...

Quote: Originally Posted by glenn bradley Just did it today actually. The spray can poly dulled in a couple spots. I just wiped on a bit of dewaxed shellac to put the gloss back; invisible fix. Does it have to be dewaxed?

Keep in mind that your choice of topcoat will also alter the color. If you use an oil based top, this usually means some more 'amberizing'. I've dealt with SWMBO before, and in my experience, yr best bet is getting the boss involved from the get go. Make a few test boards - including top coat, and have her select. The best way to control the color is to use an aniline dye. Transtint's Medium Brown or Brown Mahogany are...

Scott, thanks again for the very useful information. I definitely will try something else other than poly on my next project.

Well, I plan to just give it a try, painting a couple toys with acrylic without any primer, letting them sit a couple days, and then banging them around a little to see how the paint holds up. (Should I try gnawing on them?) I'll report back.

Quote: Originally Posted by Tony Bilello Thanks for the info. I didn't really want to order it, I was just wondering how much they cost because i was going to suggest that you might hire a refinishing shop to teach you how to spray. You can get the basics in less than an hours worth of practice. It's just nice to have someone there when you are spraying to say "closer, closer, a little faster movement" etc. ......