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Project Finishing | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Project Finishing on http://www.sawmillcreek.org.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Project Finishing, located on the Message Board at http://www.sawmillcreek.org.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Project Finishing" on the Message Board at http://www.sawmillcreek.org is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Project Finishing:
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Week
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3 Months
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Threads:
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71
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204
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533
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Post:
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222
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616
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1,589
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Project Finishing Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Orange shellac on Walnut
Published (2009-11-13 18:52:00)
I personally like the garnet shellac on walnut.
user's latest post:
HVLP at yard sale, need help!
Published (2009-11-14 17:55:00)
He could have let epoxy set up in it. Shoot some water through it before you buy. If it's way outta your price range, don't feel badly if you let it slide.
user's latest post:
Has anyone used General Finishes...
Published (2009-11-13 22:45:00)
Dan, I used cheesecloth, but I suspect just about any lint free cotton would work - old tee shirt, etc. I have also used cloth diapers - hard to find anymore!!
user's latest post:
Has anyone used General Finishes...
Published (2009-11-14 03:37:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by Jim W. White I used Arm-R-Seal on a fiddleback maple sitting bench and was very impressed with it. It flowed better than any other top coat I've used in the past and the coloring was sweet. I've found it VERY durable but I guess other's mileage might very?! ...I'd be surprised though, I think General Finishes products are nothing, if their not consistent. Jim in Idaho Thanks John + Jim, I think...
user's latest post:
Gel Stain as Pore Filler for QSWO
Published (2009-11-13 02:44:00)
See homestead finishing site. Jeff has an article on stickley/mission finish that uses Bartley's http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct..._rev3-2009.pdf
user's latest post:
Tinting Wipe On Poly
Published (2009-11-13 13:26:00)
Besides, Transtint doesn't really like oil as a solvent. It can go in with a little acetone, but you're just begging for separation and unevenness - even on the 1st coat.
user's latest post:
Ebony Cabinet Satin Refinish...
Published (2009-11-13 20:33:00)
MInwax is the crapiest of the crap you will ever find. If it's sold in a discount house, it is crap. I would suggest you go to regular paint stores like Sherwin Wiiliams or contact local cabinet shops and find out where they get their finish supplies. I can almost guarantee it is not from Home Depot.
user's latest post:
Unfinishing -i.e. removing paint
Published (2009-11-12 21:57:00)
i had one of those infrared paint removers. if you want to remove large sections of paint from siding, baseboards, beams, etc, it's arguably worth having. short of that, you can accomplish the same thing with a 30 dollar heat gun from the borg.
user's latest post:
Tinting Wipe On Poly
Published (2009-11-13 13:10:00)
Tinting a wipe-on poly will essentially create the well known, and almost virtually hated Minwax Polyshades. The problem with tinted varnishes is that any variation in the film thickness will lead to uneven coloring. Adding a second coat exaserbates the uneven coloring problem. It's always best to color and top coat in separate operations. If you want to expirement with a tinted varnish, use the Polyshades on some scrap and see how you...
user's latest post:
shelac
Published (2009-11-12 09:42:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by John Keeton Phil, here are some threads with some sources. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7106 http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31379 http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...d=5960&t=27521 A bunch of those links in those threads dont work only three had sucess
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Latest active threads on Project Finishing::
Started 21 hours, 28 minutes ago (2009-11-15 15:33:00)
by Howard Acheson
Have you contacted Target with the problem? A phone call to thier tech department is always productive and frequently answered by Jeff Weiss himself. As I understand it, they also have an excellent forum where questions can be asked.
Started 1 day ago (2009-11-15 12:37:00)
by mike holden
Mike,
assuming it is shellac, then either dont worry about it, the next coat will cover the raw wood, or put a couple coats on before sanding.
Reason for the assuming is that I dont believe that shellac is water soluble, so a water based shellac is not possible (could be wrong, would not be the first time).
If it is not shellac, read the can carefully, then re post your question with the ...
Started 5 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-10 17:36:00)
by Jim Rimmer
I have used a heat gun to remove paint but not sure I would want to tackle something as large as piano with it. If you do, be careful. Mine has two settings and on the high setting you need to be careful or you can burn the wood.
Started 1 day, 1 hour ago (2009-11-15 11:17:00)
by Tony Bilello
I'm not familiar with cedar so I wont comment on it, but the part about "spar urethane" scares me. Whenever people refer to spar urethane they are usually referring to Minwax which in my opinion is the crapiest of crap.
It takes forever to dry and is not very durable. Minwax spar urethane has given marine finishes a bad reputation in the non -marine circle of woodworkers.
I think your best ...
Started 5 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-10 22:56:00)
by Todd Carpenter
Hi Tony,
Most buffer/polishers are in the 7" to 9" range and some are variable speed and $200.00 should get you a decent machine: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn? actio...845&lpage=n one
HTH
Todd
Started 1 day, 19 hours ago (2009-11-14 17:55:00)
by Phil Phelps
He could have let epoxy set up in it. Shoot some water through it before you buy. If it's way outta your price range, don't feel badly if you let it slide.
Started 5 days, 7 hours ago (2009-11-11 05:50:00)
by Ed Gibbons
I used it on a small jewerly box several years ago. I thought it looked good. Don't go more than 2 coats. (I brushed on.) Finishing many times comes down to personal preference. FYI, I used Bulls Eye premixed orange shellac. You can also mix your own combining blonde and orange flakes to customize color.
Good luck.
Ed
Started 6 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-10 02:12:00)
by J. Scott Holmes
First mistake is using an EXTERIOR finish on an interior project.
Exterior finishes are LESS waterproof and LESS water vaporproof than interior finishes.
I would guess that the finish is filming over in the high temps and dry conditions before the varnish has had time to let all the thinner out.
How thick of a coat are you applying?
As for satin and semi-gloss you must mix ...
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Hot threads for last week on Project Finishing::
Started 3 days, 8 hours ago (2009-11-13 04:10:00)
by Bill Bixby
I just used it to finish a bed made from wenge. it deepens the color slightly and goes on easily with an old t shirt. It doesnt seem to offer alot of protection as the wood got a few scuff marks afterward from light contact. I know very little about finishing and went on the advice of the guy in the store who said he finished alot of tables with ArmRSeal. It does have a satin finish.
Next ...
Started 6 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-10 02:12:00)
by J. Scott Holmes
First mistake is using an EXTERIOR finish on an interior project.
Exterior finishes are LESS waterproof and LESS water vaporproof than interior finishes.
I would guess that the finish is filming over in the high temps and dry conditions before the varnish has had time to let all the thinner out.
How thick of a coat are you applying?
As for satin and semi-gloss you must mix ...
Started 5 days, 7 hours ago (2009-11-11 05:50:00)
by Ed Gibbons
I used it on a small jewerly box several years ago. I thought it looked good. Don't go more than 2 coats. (I brushed on.) Finishing many times comes down to personal preference. FYI, I used Bulls Eye premixed orange shellac. You can also mix your own combining blonde and orange flakes to customize color.
Good luck.
Ed
Started 6 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-09 18:33:00)
by Bill Arnold
Simple. Shellac. No poly or you'll be smelling it forever to say nothing of it getting in clothing, etc.
Edit: The only shellac I've used is Sealcoat which is de-waxed.
Started 4 days, 15 hours ago (2009-11-11 21:46:00)
by John Keeton
Phil, here are some threads with some sources.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7106
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31379
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...d=5960&t=27 521
Started 1 month, 2 weeks ago (2009-09-27 11:27:00)
by Jeff Monson
I sand with 320 between coats, that will leave you a really nice smooth finish, I would think 4 coats will be more than enough.
Started 5 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-10 17:36:00)
by Jim Rimmer
I have used a heat gun to remove paint but not sure I would want to tackle something as large as piano with it. If you do, be careful. Mine has two settings and on the high setting you need to be careful or you can burn the wood.
Started 5 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-10 17:43:00)
by Phil Phelps
Paint. A temporary conditioner that will need continuous maintenance forever.
Well it's true. However, if your posts are dry, you can prime with oil primer and top with two coats acrylic. I think the repellent acts as a sealer. I have never used it as such. I think your using two coats primer is due to the sponge effect of the cedar. That primer needs to really dry before you top coat. Read the...
Started 5 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-10 22:56:00)
by Todd Carpenter
Hi Tony,
Most buffer/polishers are in the 7" to 9" range and some are variable speed and $200.00 should get you a decent machine: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn? actio...845&lpage=n one
HTH
Todd
Started 1 day ago (2009-11-15 12:37:00)
by mike holden
Mike,
assuming it is shellac, then either dont worry about it, the next coat will cover the raw wood, or put a couple coats on before sanding.
Reason for the assuming is that I dont believe that shellac is water soluble, so a water based shellac is not possible (could be wrong, would not be the first time).
If it is not shellac, read the can carefully, then re post your question with the ...
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