General Woodworking and Power Tools | Forum profile

Quote: Originally Posted by Paul Greathouse I have had the Benchdog for about 5 years and it has performed flawlessly, but like Glenn said your choice could be somewhat limited by what router you own. I have had no experience with the Woodpecker but I'm sure its a quality lift, there are alot of members here that like it. I have a Porter Cable 7518 attached to the Benchdog and have run a wide variety of bits with it. Everything from a...

Quote: Originally Posted by johnny means baltic birch can be profiled and sanded to produce a smooth paintable edge. Of course it only seems to come in 5x5 sheets. If you go with MDF size your exposed edges with a mix of water and wood glue (1 to 1). Do about 3 coats sanding in between coats. The resulting edge will smooth, nonporous, and take finish just as well, if not better than the faces. Would that still work if I run a roundover bit on...

Masonry nail.

Actually, a miter is a butt joint. Just at a 45 degree angle. So the only question is will you be bothered by seeing the end grain? If so miter it. If not, don't. It will make absolutely no functional difference.

That's on my "winter project" list! Jason Quote: Originally Posted by scott vroom Jason, have you considered insulating the shop? I noticed the exposed studs...must be letting a lot of heat from the new stove to escape. I insulated my shop then covered the studs with 3/4" plywood rather than drywall which gives me a great surface upon which to hang stuff. Happy Thanksgiving!

Following directions is a good thing. Nothing beats Boeshield to protect against moisture. Read the Wood magazine article for the details. Good review. I have three cans of the stuff scattered around the garage. Spray on a light coat and wipe it off. Simple. The surface finish will NOT be as slippery as if you'd applied a coat of wax as this is not what Boeshield is designed to do. It was never designed to lower friction like a thick...

I never did own one but think you will find woodworkers will tell you to "run" and "run fast" . Not worth the money at all.

A couple things may speed yr process: 1) Use a pin nailer instead of (or in addition to) clamps. 2) If the edging is thicker than 1/2", consider using a biscuit joiner to help with alignment 3) If the edging is thin, consider not mitering, but just butt jointing it, and then routing the edge profile after it's been glued on.

I have had both parallel and the (i think its called) dove tail way. The standard type of bed can only be adjusted by taking the table off and shimming the bed. I love my grizzly parallel jointer because the bed is set on something like a set of camed rings. You can loosen the bed and turn each individual ring and move the bed up or down at each corner of each table. It gives you perfect easy adjustment. Mine has the long handles for height...

Hey Dan.. I think Canadian Tire has it too.. not sure.. What size do you need? If its bigger than 2".. try Andrew Sheret. Would ABS work?