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Quote: Originally Posted by killersvtcobra instead of changing gears imo i would try to run a 28" tire (345/45/17). It will give you the same effect of going up in gears but then if it dont change anything or you dont like the way acts then you can go back to the 26" tire easier and cheaper. +1

Quote: Originally Posted by KILRSVT other than a wheel bearing this is the only problem i,ve had with my IRS....i am going to repair it..i guess the question is if the sell the lower diff mount separate or if it comes with a carrier?...I was not asking the coversion to sra. Many times the factory rubber in the rear diff mount (I think that's the one you're referring to) gets so compromised the differential can actually wind up and...

Quote: Originally Posted by rotor_powerd That's really great, but 3 of the most prominent IRS cars you have cited again and again are still behind it. I certainly hope you aren't declaring that the SRA has any sort of general superiority over the IRS on a racetrack with turns, elevation changes, curbs, undulations, bumps, etc., especially with this sole example. You'd be fundamentally, historically, and literally wrong.

Instead of changing gears IMO I would try to run a 28" tire (345/45/17). It will give you the same effect of going up in gears but then If it dont change anything or you dont like the way acts then you can go back to the 26" tire easier and cheaper.

That's really great, but 3 of the most prominent IRS cars you have cited again and again are still behind it.

It all depends on what you want in the car, if your gonna be out on a road track trying to carve corners for a living then I'd say stay with the IRS. If you want to get rid of the annoying wheel hop Id go with a SRA. However, a SRA car is bad to drive, handles great to be exact.

You know, I said the same thing but I did not want to mention it to him. It was the weirdest thing when I drove away and all of the sudden I can not shift? I purchased a Stedda Adjustable Clutch Cable, Quick release quadrant and a Spec2+ Clutch and flywheel. I hope this fixes my problem. If that is bad advice should I return the Stedda parts? Thanks again guys for your help it is greatly appreciated.

gonna be getting a new DFX clutch and flywheel so im wondering if the throwout bearing is a good one that comes in the kit or is there another i should buy and use? also is the fidanza steel flywheel a good flywheel with the sec that is replacable on it? any problems with the flywheels that have those sections? or is the mccleod better?

Confused also on why they are adding $1k to the price if a flywheel is needed. Stockers are in the $350 range and take 5 mins. to replace. Other options are aftermarket or send the Stocker to Mcleod to change the friction ring out for $125.

What mods do you have to the IRS? Have the bushings been replaced and what tires are you running