General Technical and Electrical | Forum profile

Quote: Originally Posted by TheStig88 same way you would with brakes..... open bleeder.....pump pedal until it squirts......close bleeder....continue until pedal is firm WRONG dont open the bleeder then pump. you pump then open the bleeder and hold petal to the floor then close bleeder and pump up again. If you pump with the bleeder open you will fill it with more air

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The coolant temp sensor that I replaced has two wires. The temp sending unit that I replaced has one.

So, about all that you have left electrically is a wiggle test on the wire from the cluster to the sender. After that, you'll need to look into the mechanical side.

Quote: Originally Posted by wvcat Sometimes you can get an air lock in the master. It requires you to take it loose from the fiewall and angle it so the line is upward then go underneath and open the bleeder til you get straight fluid and reinstall. I have had to do this before and it fixed the problem. Thank you. I will try that out tonight when i get off my lazy ass :p

Quote: Originally Posted by Fenech627 Happened to me and ended up having low brake fluid caused by a faulty wheel cylinder. thanks for sayin that i need to check my rear drums and clean them agin any way ill check the wheel cylinder also why im back ther but today after school it came on and i went to autozone to look at some lights and when i got in it to go to wal-mart it didnt come on then when i went to go home it didnt come on either i...

Check your underhood fuse box. I have my fogs hooked up there, without a relay (I don't have a fog light switch). There is a slot that gets power when the parking lights are lit. I can't remember off the top of my head, but a relay for the fog switch is supposed to be there. Play around with a volt meter. I wouldn't splice into the parking lights because that would be too much load on that single wire IMO.

ok so the lines can be done easy enough, napa sounds like a great spot to get me what i need. now how about after its hooked up and primed. how does the box react in the truck? when the pump is running will the box self center to a point? and will it automatically give equal turn radius outputs, (proportinal left and right)? or is there other adjustments that are made other then the pitman arm position.?

The engine to body ground is usually a woven steel strap that goes from the rear head bolt to the firewall.

its got fuel pressure, new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. this weekend im gonna put a new coil on it. one of my superior said that the timing could be backwards, but i dont think that is it, when i replaced the timing kit, the dots on the gears were lined up/ pointing towards each other. when the engine is at top dead center the rotor is pointing to the firewall.