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Quote: Originally Posted by Nickfast Heated air for cold running. Supposed to have a flex hose running from that to air intake. You will see on your air cleaner a similar connection with a vacuum motor on it. Not really needed, mainly to help with driveability until the motor warms up. Nick Yes, usually eliminated when a tube/cold air intake is installed.

Sounds like solenoid A is definitely toast then. 3 ohms is way low, that thing will pull nearly 5 amps at normal running engine voltage. And the fact that it's too high resistance when cold makes me even more suspicious. The driver chips used in the 97+ TCU (Sanken SI-5154s) are only rated for 2.5 amps absolute max, and will go into overcurrent protection mode (and *should* throw a CEL with a related transmission code, if the TCU...

That is a LOT of caster. Don't have a spec sheet in front of me but that seems too much, I'd like about 6 degrees. Also did you type that right, they set it to toed out? That's not good.

Yes the MAT will cause all kinds of problems. The basic operating principle of fuel-injection is that the computer determines how much air is entering the system and then controls fuel delivery to match (driver only controls air delivery through throttle body, computer does the rest). In order to determine proper amount of fuel, the computer first needs to know how much air is going into the combustion chamber--it already knows volume...

I'm chasing a similar gremlin now..... kinda. Mine got to a point as to it would start at random. Once when that happened, I had a spark tester on one of the plugs and noticed I was getting no fire. My problem in that case just happen to be the shielded wire running in the loom (plastic loom protector was missing) from the firewall to the front of the engine down to the Knock Sensor. The wire was shorting on the top of the head, at the...

After warm up: Solenoid A was 2.980 to 3.000 Solenoid B,C where 14.9 to 15.1 I checked at the last wiring connector under the hood

Quote: Originally Posted by R.DesJardin Actaully both solenoids are on for 2nd gear, 1st #1 on, #2 off 2nd #1 on, #2 on 3rd #1 off, #2 on 4th Both off Are you sure it isn't shifting from 1st into 4th and then TC lock? TC lock feel like a gear because the rpm does drop. Doh! You're right. Must be that failing memory again.

If you look at the little spot of light above the pinion, behind the left tire, you can see the spring leaves spreading. Try some leaf clamps first. I'll bet the steel strap bands are gone. I got six, three on each side (two in front, one behind, although yours seems to need them behind for acceleration), and no more clunk after braking. I tightened them enough to let the leaves slide, tight enough to keep them in place. A little LockTite...

Don't replace sensors that aren't broke. They shouldn't wear out. A possible exception to this is the O2 sensors, but I'd run 'em until you get an error code.

If you can re-create this at idle, you should be able to find it. Pop the hood and fine tune your ear! Kick in the throttle by hand or have a buddy do it. Sometimes a mechanics stethoscope helps isolate noises.