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Classic Tech | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Classic Tech on http://www.allfordmustangs.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Classic Tech , located on the Message Board at http://www.allfordmustangs.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Classic Tech " on the Message Board at http://www.allfordmustangs.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Classic Tech :
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Week
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Month
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3 Months
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Threads:
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318
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920
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2,722
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Post:
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891
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2,478
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7,416
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Classic Tech Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Fitting a Floor Console in 1966...
Published (2009-11-26 09:41:00)
I would be interested in the measurements as well. I had hoped there were dimples in the floor metal indicating where that bracket should go. If there are, I sure don't see them in my car. Without dimensions from someone I think you sort of align it so the (manual?) shifter is in the center of the hole and so the console sits sort of straight with the seats/transmission hump. There is also a problem with poking holes in the floor for the...
user's latest post:
1969 Mustang 302 rebuild problems
Published (2009-11-28 14:14:00)
Hello Gary,s 1969, Welcome to the forums. The link from Boomyal is very very good. If however you plan to do a lot of work yourself there are several things you can do that would help preformace and pep. You don't mention what type trans or carb. To increase performance you could do the following 1. - New 4 barrel and or intake manifold 2. - Set of headers 3. - A differnet cam One with a littel more lift and duration. These three things...
user's latest post:
Immeasuably maddening!!!!
Published (2009-11-28 20:14:00)
I just reinstalled my refurbed heater box. Got the three cables all hooked up, installed the defroster hoses, replaced the right trim kickpanel and was getting ready to re-install the right threshold plate. This is all complicated by an underdash A/C unit. It suddenly occured to me that I should turn on the blower motor and make sure that it ran and blew air. THE BLOWER CAGE IS HITTING SOMETHING!!! GRRRRRRRR! I should have powered it up...
user's latest post:
1965 mustang 289 wont run!
Published (2009-11-28 03:15:00)
Does it stumble or bog when the car is in neutral and you mash the gas?
user's latest post:
How & What tools do I need...
Published (2009-11-28 09:14:00)
Yeah try the wood first but use a safety chain on the spring and lower arm just in case.
user's latest post:
1965 Mustang Heater cables
Published (2009-11-28 20:14:00)
The chrome heater/defrost control panel should have two nuts, on the back side, securing it to the dash.
user's latest post:
1968 Mustang Coupe: After-market...
Published (2009-11-28 11:14:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by SDMustangRider I haven't really drove it yet. I just BARELY got the horn working now. I read people had probs. with the horn coming off but mine stays on nicely. Maybe people whose nut been coming off the wheel probably didn't torque it down maybe? They put mine on with an impact wrench. It came off. I put the repro wheel on using a 1/2" drive socket head, and because I didn't have a...
user's latest post:
1966 Mustang Tail Pipe tips -...
Published (2009-11-28 03:15:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by thetvirus I recommend paying a little more money and get an original ford tooling gt rear valance instead of the cheaper one. Ugh. Got the REAL Valance. Cost me 75 altogether. $49 for the valance. 8 for shipping, 12 for oversize and then 4 for tax. It'll be worth it. Sucks it doesn't come with the chrome exhaust trimming for it.
user's latest post:
Please help with Holly Carb ID.
Published (2009-11-28 19:14:00)
Does anyone know how to identfy and date this Holley carburator? The codes on it are: 80457 1054 It came off my friends '67 Cougar 289 and he was wondering if it was the orignal carburetor.
user's latest post:
1967 Mustang Wiring harness
Published (2009-11-28 03:14:00)
Hello. Yes, he really does know his stuff. I used to hang around at VMF until I A) found this site and, B) someone else at VMF made me so mad I couldn't see straight. But, I'm past that now. That's Doctor Jacobson, not Mister, and that phd is in some kind of electronic stuff. He used to design satelites or submarine detection equipment or something for the government. He's also a very nice man and very honest. If he says...
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Latest active threads on Classic Tech ::
Started 1 day, 7 hours ago (2009-11-29 02:54:00)
by Leon B
I do think the roller perches will allow the car to come up a little easier on launch, but if you're going to put them in I'd go with the first ones. I like them better because it allows the shock to not bind with the angle of the spring like the second one or the stock perches do. I did a new front end on my '66 and don't like the fact that the shocks are dependent on the angle of the spring ...
Started 1 day, 9 hours ago (2009-11-29 01:14:00)
by Print Dad
Hello hellphyre,
According to what I find you have the correct clutch and parts.
I checked several vendors and you are correct.
Asa far as the clutch...I can't find a clutch for your car anywhere.
What makes you think it needs a resurface or replacement?
Is it bluish or have crack spots?
If the teeth look good and the surface looks normal color I may just use it.
You could ...
Started 5 days, 20 hours ago (2009-11-24 14:33:00)
by jpuhalla
I need help with a brake light issue on my 65 coupe. On the driver's side, the brake light does not work. The driving light and turn light work fine. This tells me that the wiring from the turn switch to the light should be ok, right? Is it possible that the turn signal switch is bad or am I overlooking something completely obvious?
thanks for any help.
Started 1 day, 9 hours ago (2009-11-29 01:14:00)
by Mystangs
I have a 65 fastback with a door tag that shows 65 as the trim code. The car had red seats that someone painted or put a black dye on to change the color but I can see the red. When I look up the code it lists this car as red and white inside but I don't know what parts are red and what is white now. Anyone have one they can share a picture of or at least tell me what it should look like inside?...
Started 1 day, 9 hours ago (2009-11-29 01:14:00)
by FordGtMan
Thats alright. I spent 5 hours today figuring out how to put on door handles and rear windows in today. i layed tape down to make sure the outside wouldn't get scratched up installing them and it turned out to be too sticky for the paint and peeled some off.
Started 2 days ago (2009-11-28 10:14:00)
by Snake Pliskin
This does not seem good at all. More than a misunderstanding. Perhaps legal intervention is in order. He cashed your check and you sent over $500 dollars through the mail. I'm sure there is an offense there somewhere. I'm not looking for that piece but will give you a bump to keep our membership apprised.
Started 1 day, 17 hours ago (2009-11-28 17:14:00)
by Boomyal
See this link! http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...6-mustang.h tml
Started 1 day, 10 hours ago (2009-11-29 00:14:00)
by Print Dad
Hello Coco,
I assume you are having trouble with the inner bolt.
There are no real great tricks I am afraid.
To install the new fuel pump I would do the following:
1. - Clean the area where it will attach with carb cleaner
2. - Apply a THIN film of RTV to the block and the gasket
3. - Position pump in the block
4. - Start bolts by hand (should go in pretty far if yo clean the ...
Started 3 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-27 00:11:00)
by 66Sprint200
Ok, if you have a console with the box at the end, your going to have to take it out.
First, disconnect the wiring (disconnect the battery first).
Next, attached to the center of the back of the radio is a bracket. Unbolt the bracket and pull it back off the stud.
Now, remove the radio knobs by simply pulling them off.
On knob shaft, there is a large very thin nut. While supporting the...
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Hot threads for last week on Classic Tech ::
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-21 06:07:00)
by thetvirus
Angle cut tip looks good on late model cars, like camaros and chevy trucks, but I don't think angle cut tips look good on classic cars, especially classic mustangs.
Started 6 days, 22 hours ago (2009-11-23 12:19:00)
by Ivy66GT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger1 Mine will not do this... What does yours do? The CVRs (I think that was Ford's name) were pretty much all the same from 1957 on. It should give a couple of seconds of straight 12V until the metal strips inside warm up and start moving around. Not having that burst of 12V will only slow down the initial needle movements and...
Started 3 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-27 00:11:00)
by First5.0
Anything is possible. If you have the time, money and the idea!
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-21 06:07:00)
by RileyF100
I believe that your ratio is 9.5 static, but what really counts is dynamic compression ratio. That takes into account effective stroke and compression, but I don't know how to calculate it or what info you need.
Started 3 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-27 00:12:00)
by Faith No More
I'm not sure, but i've been wondering this myself. I'm in a bad neighborhood, and i've had people trying to break into my stang , and had my stereo stolen out of my truck!
+1 For needing an answer!
Started 6 days, 22 hours ago (2009-11-23 12:19:00)
by 66Sprint200
The best kit on the market that I know of is by the first company to come out with LED taillamps for classic Mustangs-- Mustang Project. They do make sequential kits, and theirs are the brightest out there.
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-22 00:07:00)
by Champion Speed
I would look at the starter solenoid next. It's mounted on the pass side fender well just aft of the battery. A very simple way to tell if it has gone bad is to jump the output side of the solenoid to the ignition stud on the solenoid. If the engine cranks/starts you've found the problem.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-21 06:07:00)
by Tominator
This has been covered many times before...
In a Mustang the C6 is a boat anchor! It's HEAVY and EATS horsepower! In a SBF truck or a big block, OK. But the C4 is twice the transmission the C6 is in the performance world.
Started 4 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-26 09:41:00)
by Singer4ad
Mustangs Plus and National Parts Depot (NPD) sells the conversion parts. Things that you will run in to. Your drive shaft will need to be shortened 1 to 1 1/2" depending on which rear axle you have.
If you are running a 3.5 or higher rear axle ratio 1st gear will become useless. I run the same ratio as my late model Mustang with a T-45 which has the same trans ratios, a 3.27. This is the ...
Started 3 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-27 00:12:00)
by bilomoto
Happy Thanksgiving. This is my second attempt as I have a crap computer today so here we go: I am working on a 65 mustang 289 4bbl with a new shortblock and original top end. It has a mile comp cam and new pushrods. when we started it we broke in the cam correctly and then timed it out to factory timing specs. WHen in idel it runs and sounds GREAT!!! but when it is put in gear it loads up and ...
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