Mazda3 Engine, Transmission & Drivetrain | Forum profile

Thanks for the suggestion... NJ isn't that far for me. I would just have to plan carefully so it could all be done at once.

Quote: Originally Posted by camrycev6 That doesn't sound bad at all. I would just need to find a place in MD that I could trust to do the work. the inlet is an easier install than your cai, and the test pipe is about the same. so even if your not tool savvy it can be done. I recommend taking the drive to NJ and getting tuned at Akuma Motorsports. The owner and I are in constant contact tweaking the tune to get optimal power safely from...

no problem, ill check my dealer service report i remember it stated the correct PSI, ill let u know once i find out

I'm due for a tranny flush, I was wondering what kind of fluid I should get? I don't want the factory OEM fluid, I would much rather get something that is better and longer lasting. I don't mind spending the extra cash, so any help here is appreciated. BTW I have the 2006 2.0 Mazda 3 Auto Transmission Thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by vladjan no problem, ill check my dealer service report i remember it stated the correct PSI, ill let u know once i find out Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. Will go for the kit and check around underneath for other degradation as well. Bill

Could the tensioner pulley bearings be going bad, and with the cold temperature making the pulley squeal until it warms up?

nope. not trying to cover up the sound. just trying to prove its coming from something inside the engine. and maybe some ideas on what it could be.

Normally a clutch doesn't suddenly start slipping unless something breaks. Usually it begins slipping a little and it gradually gets worse. No adjustments. I don't know how much it will cost, but there is more labor involved in a front wheel drive than with a rear drive vehicle. Call around and get some quotes. If you know a good general repair shop they should be able to repalce a clutch, probably at less cost than a dealer. I...

Seconded on both the good general repair shop and replacing the complete clutch -- it comes as a whole kit. You've got the thing in the air and disassembled; better to do the whole clutch than to pay labor again to have to go back in there later if something else fails in it. Also, might as well replace anything else that's in rough shape and has to be removed to get at the clutch/transmission (e.g. ball joints, etc.).