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Suspension, Handling & Brakes | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Suspension, Handling & Brakes on http://www.miata.net.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Suspension, Handling & Brakes, located on the Message Board at http://www.miata.net.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Suspension, Handling & Brakes" on the Message Board at http://www.miata.net is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Suspension, Handling & Brakes:
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Week
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3 Months
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Threads:
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173
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545
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1,451
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Post:
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734
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2,322
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5,945
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Suspension, Handling & Brakes Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Changing spring rate.
Published (2009-12-05 19:52:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by wannafbody Thumper, post up your combo when you get it figured out. I think I got it,not 100% sure though. 70mm diameter which should be 2.75" ID Free Length front 150 rear 175 Front rate 8kg 448 lbs Rear rate 6kg 340 lbs This should take me from 12" to 12.75" rear 12" to 12.5 " front Probably use .375 " spacers to get a little more travel FCM 36 mm bumps. My...
user's latest post:
Seem to be lifting the...
Published (2009-12-05 20:44:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by poormxdad Any opinions on going back to the staggered perch setup? You should make them equal and install a spacer above the shock mount if you need to even the ride heights. When I took hard lefts all I felt was right wheel wheel spin. It felt like over steer on hard rights, where my rear would lose contact and start to slip. Even after installing a Torsen diff I still have wheel spin - probably because the Azenis...
user's latest post:
Anyone use spring rates of...
Published (2009-12-05 19:59:00)
I'm running 300/200, which is close, and its not much different from OEM ride-wise, but as others have said I think your issue is probably more related to the shocks. Dropping from 375/250 to 300/220 is unlikely to make much of a difference.
user's latest post:
Comfy street setup - STR.T vs. ?
Published (2009-12-05 18:34:00)
So if I'm reading the bumpstop chart correctly starting with a theoretical 300# spring you'd have a progressive 300#-900# effective spring rate-correct?
user's latest post:
What brake rotors do you use and...
Published (2009-12-03 03:10:00)
I have been considering the blank DBA rotors. I see on their website that they sell them for the miata but Ive been having a hard time finding them for sale. I like their kangaroo paw design cooling "fins." Might even go for their 4000 series GoodWin-DBA 4000 series . Kinda pricey though. __________________ Joe Roudabush Bloomington, IN '99 Twilight Blue and Tan.
user's latest post:
Teflon LCA Bushings?
Published (2009-12-05 14:06:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by Al English Combine those with some urethane bushings at the other locations and you're cool. so are you saying that polyurethan bushings such as the energy suspension set is not the concern? The concern is more along the lines of really hard materials such as deriln and others? Just trying to make my future decisions more informed
user's latest post:
[NA] KYB foam bump stops/boots -...
Published (2009-12-05 12:53:00)
I don't know how many different part numbers KYB has for Bump stops but I was in a web site that sells KYB bump stops. I looked up what cars can use the bump stops that I had looked up and it spit up a few hundred different models ( ! ) I don't have a problem with that but I would think that the Miata as a well engineered car has at least some particulars connected with the bump stops they use. What do you guys think ?
user's latest post:
Quick camber question
Published (2009-12-04 21:03:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by R Tach .. . But a better habit would be to use a real ARC TAN function...because a land surveyor...or a physics lab...could work with angles to within 1/3600th of a degree. And a weekend navigator can work with angles of 1/60 of a degree... When I need that sort of accuracy I'll go that route. But I like to have a bunch of simple but effective "habits" that I can use to get a reasonable...
user's latest post:
Lowering '92 miata - Page 2...
Published (2009-12-02 14:56:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by wallijonn I think you're being a little too harsh. Mods may have a few words to say about it. I'm usually the one who tells people to either forget it (and if they do lower it, to save all the old parts because once they get tired of the harsh ride they'll sell it and the next owner will want to undo the mess he made) or do it right for about $2000. Hmmm, I guess I already showed how much I care...
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Latest active threads on Suspension, Handling & Brakes::
Started 6 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-30 11:55:00)
by jimbonnie
It's a lot easier to comment if we know what you're using the car for, what spring rates you're contemplating, and what kind of alignment numbers you'll be using.
__________________
Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco. Will Rogers
BEGi S-2, fancy new Innovate LC-1 w/ G-5 gauge, MSPnP, 460 cc injectors.
Started 1 week, 6 days ago (2009-11-23 11:17:00)
by Doppelgänger
I highly doubt you're lifting the inside wheel. It takes quite a bit of grip to do that...meaning a tire far more sticky than what you're running. Also, the car wouldn't be oversteering. As to what you're feeling, I don't know as your description isn't very helpful to me.
Started 19 hours, 57 minutes ago (2009-12-06 11:30:00)
by GaryS
To keep sway bars from "walking" the common cure is to buy a piece of heater hose of the approximate ID of the diameter of the bar, cut it in half, slit each half lengthwise and slip then over the bar just inside of the mounts. A small hose clamp is then used to hold them in place.
Started 7 months, 2 weeks ago (2009-04-23 08:43:00)
by Matty
Just buy the FM 1.5 kit - it comes with bumpstops.
Started 1 day, 20 hours ago (2009-12-05 10:58:00)
by Mr. Cranky
Dward, you might want to talk to Fat Cat about revalving those HD's. I think that will have more affect on your ride then the spring change you mentioned. Chuck
Started 1 month, 2 weeks ago (2009-10-20 18:27:00)
by ubersoph
The guy is full of crap. My car is completely stable in the wet.
You need an alignment, check suspension, and make sure your tires aren't crap in the rain.
I was driving a track event in the rain, approaching triple digit speeds, and the car was completely stable as long as I braked and accelerated in a straight line.
Started 2 days, 8 hours ago (2009-12-04 22:36:00)
by Adam777
I'd say go for the Flyin' Miata Ground Controls for the Illuminas if you want to keep the same shocks.
Started 1 day, 6 hours ago (2009-12-06 00:54:00)
by wallijonn
Unless they are leaking I wouldn't worry about it for a second. If you decide to replace the springs then you want to test them to make sure that the rod doesn't go down easily. What you have to worry about is the rear bump stop disintegrating. If it does, then check the shocks when you replace them.
How do you like the ride? A few here think that the NB HD is harsh. My re-valved NA to NB ...
Started 4 days, 11 hours ago (2009-12-02 19:53:00)
by leakyfaucet
KYB GR-2s
__________________
'01 Base 5-Speed with all of the bracing, 10lb flywheel, beefy clutch, Torsen.
Started 3 days, 7 hours ago (2009-12-03 23:51:00)
by MrJayDeeM
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Hot threads for last week on Suspension, Handling & Brakes::
Started 1 month, 2 weeks ago (2009-10-20 18:27:00)
by ubersoph
The guy is full of crap. My car is completely stable in the wet.
You need an alignment, check suspension, and make sure your tires aren't crap in the rain.
I was driving a track event in the rain, approaching triple digit speeds, and the car was completely stable as long as I braked and accelerated in a straight line.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-28 01:32:00)
by APO
The NAPA rotors are one of the favored brake rotors on this forum. Good and cheap. Many use them at the track.
Slots just create a nice place for a stress crack to propagate.
There are light rotors out there with aluminum hubs but I only know of those for the big brake kits.
Started 2 weeks, 1 day ago (2009-11-21 09:15:00)
by wannafbody
I think the FM Afco's and FCM Bilsteins are pretty well respected for NA and NB's. The Ohlins tend to lack rear suspension travel in comparison.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-27 16:35:00)
by Thumper 13
This is gonna cost you some $$$ if you want to do it right and have some kind of suspension travel,How much of a drop do you want and pick a dollar figure over 500.00 to start.
Started 1 week, 3 days ago (2009-11-26 21:25:00)
by wallijonn
No ballast is how I did mine. I adjusted one end link for perpendicular height, removed it, adjusted second end link to first endlink's height, installed both endlinks into car.
My NA6 has different heights so it didn't make sense to adjust them with me in the driver's seat as that side would be lower than the right side.
Started 6 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-30 11:55:00)
by jimbonnie
It's a lot easier to comment if we know what you're using the car for, what spring rates you're contemplating, and what kind of alignment numbers you'll be using.
__________________
Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco. Will Rogers
BEGi S-2, fancy new Innovate LC-1 w/ G-5 gauge, MSPnP, 460 cc injectors.
Started 3 days, 15 hours ago (2009-12-03 15:59:00)
by wooo
Not sure which car which you are talking about, and whether or not it is lowered. Anyway on my NC I go with a bit more negative camber at the rear, and wouldn't like to have the reverse. I think the same applies to earlier models.
Amongst other things you might get uneven rear tire wear.
p.s. if it's the NC I don't understand why they couldn't get more camber. I'v been up to -1.7* ...
Started 5 days, 16 hours ago (2009-12-01 14:42:00)
by Diamond Dave
The Spec suspension exists to keep the field on a single platform; not because it's the best suspension. I'd avoid it regardless of price.
Suspension is something you really only want to do once, so save your money and do it right.
Started 3 months, 2 weeks ago (2009-08-21 22:41:00)
by Nice91
Surprised that nobody finds good, inexpensive bump stops/boots for the NA interesting.
They fit perfectly and work great too.
Started 4 days, 16 hours ago (2009-12-02 15:07:00)
by Mal
In theory, impossible unless the car is bent. In truth there may be enough flex to cause that situation. The critical question is how much weight is in each corner. If the weight is less on the high corner; it is likely the car is bent; if greater it is likely that corner is loaded by either a higher rate spring or a loaded shock. If not bent, and the right rear suspension is ...
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