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Quote: Originally Posted by BetterSense The red and green filters filter out parts of the spectrum, radically shifting the tones on the film, to the extent that elements of the picture completely swap tones with each other between filters, or disappear altogether...you cannot put that back on the negative with post-processing. I see what you are saying. I am always trying to pull out as much of the normal scene as I can. In the scenes that...

Quote: Originally Posted by Dave Jeffery How do you expect the economy to recover if we stop pissing money down the toilet on things we don't need??? You call yourself a photographer? :^) I'm going to call mine the G10 spot. I have to say that I find that logic a little bit... spotty, shall we say?. ;^)

Polaroid made a "cold clip" made from two hinged sheets of metal that was designed to sandwich the film between and hold it against your warm shirt under your coat... or under your arm pit.

The red and green filters filter out parts of the spectrum, radically shifting the tones on the film, to the extent that elements of the picture completely swap tones with each other between filters, or disappear altogether...you cannot put that back on the negative with post-processing. Look how the metal frame of the playground swaps tones with the slide itself...and the pole-thing in the forground. Look at the shape-puzzle to the left of...

Well im going to get some bag bellows. The draw only extends to 20cm so they must be standard, and that's full out for the camera.

Marko worte "If you already have a digital camera, try it first. If you are not happy with the results you get, I think you should try out the available alternatives (i.e. find someone who has one or the other and try them out) before you spend more money on another camera." How do you expect the economy to recover if we stop pissing money down the toilet on things we don't need??? You call yourself a photographer? :^)...

Quote: Originally Posted by Gem Singer Aim the one degree spot at the darkest area in the scene where you still want to see some detail. Close down two stops. You have just placed the shadow area in Zone III. That's usually the proper exposure for the scene. Now, aim the spot at the brightest area in the scene. If it's a five stop range between the darkest and brightest reading, use normal development. Less than five, increase...

Lenny, Zone III ZoneIV Zone V Zone VI ZoneVII Count them. That's five zones (stops)

Quote: Originally Posted by BetterSense I think the sentence is wrong. In fact, reciprocity failure increases contrast and will lead to highlights blowing out at the expense of shadow detail. I think the quoted sentence would only be true for reversal film. Or, in a context that is missing. Wrong. Too much over exposure and the curve starts dropping again. It would be nice if it were predictable but it isn't and won't start...

I think I've seen devices which do LF TTL. Not that I'd ever spend enough money to get close to one of them. Since my brother borrowed and lost my light meter I'm metering by eye.