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hahaha,I told ya......I went there just to make sure I had the site right and spent an hour. lol....the best thing is they're a real friendly bunch, I've met a few of them.

Quote: Originally Posted by Sixguns Im an engine guy, everything has to be clean. So after body work, I wipe down the whole thing and blow it off and tac it before spraying. Most of us are doing this for a hobby , have no booth and do welding,engine and paint work all in the same space. Set yourself up for success, read the tech sheets and Keep it clean. And that is why I wanted to educate on the procedure. Because there is an engine covered...

I see the site for the International meet is only about 75 miles or so from my place. I'll have to run up there a couple of days next year. Bob

OK Brian I think you made your point very clear. Vince

The school I am referring to is a Community college.For the most part the above was a direct quote to what he was telling me,BUT I feel like even then I should have been a little more clear about the actual details of what he said.At first I felt like the teacher in question was just behind the times and not up to date. The more I thought about it the more it occurred to me that it couldn't be he was that behind because he said to use...

Quote: While at the same time, the ODDS that something is on the filler that needs to be removed is VERY little soooooooooo why take the chance? Quote: Waiting to the next day before you prime sounds like a long time........to get contaminated. Explain THIS to me. Your contradicting yourself.How is my "stuff" going to get "contaminated" IN the booth I'm painting in? Your going to tell me that being in...

WHY? theres no way to make rust and not have it get worse. the only real option would be really good paint work but rust- look just does not make sense if you'v got a solid painted vehicle to start

I never said that a dura glass type of product is water proof. But is FAR more resistent than a standard filler will be. Have fun.