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Quote: Originally Posted by renegadecoupe ..funny thing is it has fire between coil wire and plug with tester but will not fire the plug... What type of tester are you using.? Neon pen tester does not tell you very much. Instead, remove the plug, snap the spark plug wire to it, hold the plug against the frame of bike and crank. Do you see a spark jump the gap?

Welcome Renegadcoupe to the HDTalking forum. While there are tabs near the top of the page toSelf Help Tips and threads available in the Search using key words. I have to say you have done a lot of work, but several things seem to stand out. 1) Then you checked for spark, did you actually pull the plug (cover the open spark plug hole with a rag) ground the hex metal to the engine case and see a crisp blue spark? (just trying to clarify...

I'd think by now you'd be posting with information about what it was that was wrong. Disconnect the switch and see if it still happens. Find the next connector inline and try that next 'til you get to the module that's overseeing things. If the symptoms don't stop anywhere along the way it'd likely be the module itself with a loose/faulty component. I'm pretty sure the fault's on the control signal side...

yea well i really would like to know the ac output on a 2008 efi softail stator

It sounds like if I get a HID kit made for Harley with a enclosure as a whole kit I would be ok. I will have to check, I never looked to see if Harley makes one.

look at close to bottom of page to see how to check stator and regulator. My Motorcycle Won't Start!! What Now? The Stator can be checked with the Ohms function on your meter. Locate and remove the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. You will see two or three pins inside. Set the meter for low Ohms, and measure the continuity between these pins. 5 Ohms or less is what you are looking for here. Set the meter to the...

hoop, Mine is one f the pre-89 setupd where the solenoid is not attached to the starter it is actually positioned at the top of the inner primary cover. Dont know if it makes a difference. As far as #2 is concerned that would make sense for it to be sent to battery + , I wonder if the Clymer made a misprint and it should have read FROM battery and not FROM starter motor

Nice work Hoop, thanks. It's nice to have members that can solve the problems for others.

Hi all, OP here again. So, first off, thanks for all your posts on this subject. 1.) I checked all the bulbs, but they're all good to go. I traded the fronts bulbs from left to right, and also the back bulbs left to right, but the problem remained on the right side in all conditions. Bummer, now I know it's more complicated. 2.) So, I'm attacking the right blinker switch, and I'm following the manual now. I took apart the...

Quote: Originally Posted by Hobbit do they not generate masses more heat as well? i remember i MTB lights with ballast and high output HID styling bulbs actually had vented enclosures and would get hot enought to burn skin Thanks for asking this one Hobbit, I tried to upgrade the bulbs on my 05FLTRI to the next higher intensity bulb (not MTB or HID) and blistered the lens covering the bulbs. Not the lens that covers both bulbs and is affexied...