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Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips on http://forum.gon.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips, located on the Message Board at http://forum.gon.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips" on the Message Board at http://forum.gon.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips:
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Week
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3 Months
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Threads:
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65
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264
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646
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Post:
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190
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730
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1,795
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Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
mini-14
Published (2009-11-26 19:35:00)
do a search for accurizing (spell it a couple different ways). A large amount will show up with good descriptions and many will have pictures. Just because they are for a different rifle, likely it will apply to yours. Bedding is bedding, polishing ramps is polishing ramps....trigger will have to be for just your rifle. If you can't find it here, Google it. If you are wondering if something shouldn't be done or seems wrong, post it...
user's latest post:
Metal prep & bluing
Published (2009-11-26 10:43:00)
I have had boats like that.What kind of epoxy are you using? I use west system a lot for my boat repair. it's 5:1 and supper hard. You can see where some heavy stuff grabbed hold(and where I was to timid to remove deep pitting as in your pic). I had been using a home brew accelerator but I have stopped and simply let nature do it's thing. I have been using 000 steel wool and then washing afterward w/ OH to remove any oil from the...
user's latest post:
Marlin 336 Stainless , Too shiny
Published (2009-11-25 16:28:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by swamp hunter I told him not to buy it . Now , He,s got a pretty wife ,A big fancy house , Makes more money then me and he,s killed ZERO deer this season . I got 5 in the freezer. I told him to get a 60,s 70,s 30/30 marlin . Old school . Solid American Steel. No , Gotta get the pretty one . What,s Dura Cote?. Rhino lining for guns?? No, duracoat is a coating that you spray on with an airbrush and once properly...
user's latest post:
Question for you GS
Published (2009-11-21 18:39:00)
Sold thanks for all the intrest
user's latest post:
mini-14
Published (2009-11-26 20:31:00)
I had one years back I though of accurizing. I got rid of it before I did. That gun shot like lightning!!!......Never hit the same place twice!
user's latest post:
Alternative to hot Gun Blue Bath?
Published (2009-11-20 08:52:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by seaweaver THIS is the info I'm looking for! Now....the action on the bench saturated in ...(yea) WD40 after the last "cold" blue...is now saturated in rust. Is it the metal? moon? me? This is nuts... I'm starting to think Rhino Liner... But I'm going to research more on the Rust blue as it seem I have 1/2 of it down. cw Seaweaver, Welcome to the world of metal finishing!
user's latest post:
barrel weight/harmonic blancer
Published (2009-11-20 17:39:00)
Dude, $75 each used. I only did the shortening of the ring and added the shaft collars. Oh, and bored them to fit my bbls. I had 3 but Bob Bradshaw kidnapped one and paid me the ransom Wait till you see the RVA. I do have all the materials to make my own tuners, just waiting for all the planets to align: No rain for a couple of days so I can open the overhead door to vent fumes, relatively warm outside, head not hurting , neck not hurting
user's latest post:
Grips
Published (2009-11-23 09:32:00)
under the heading of other, I don't make them but I got a set of these. I like em a lot. The fit was a little tight around the magwell but with a little coaxing they went into place. The sealer clouded up from the coaxing and so I removed it and the scales. The snakeskin leather still looks good and is textured and plenty grippy. I like them better now than when they had the sealer and scales on them. So far they seem to be pretty tough...
user's latest post:
Removing lead from barrel.
Published (2009-11-23 16:47:00)
Go to Kroger and buy a pack of Chore-Boys Copper Put a small square piece over a patch and scrub - works great - no damage to the bore. Cuts with scissors. I don't think I would use Steel wool. I used to work like heck to clean lead from barrels till i learned this trick.
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Latest active threads on Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips::
Started 2 months, 1 week ago (2009-09-20 19:27:00)
by Lead Poison
Eezox has no equal!
I use it as lubricant/protectant on all my firearms.
http://www.eezox.com/
http://www.eezox.com/faqs.html
Started 4 days, 15 hours ago (2009-11-24 16:29:00)
by EMC-GUN
Traditionally speaking bluing and parkerizing is for carbon steel finishes. Stainless is a whole different animal. You can do a bake on finish though.
Started 2 days, 22 hours ago (2009-11-26 09:18:00)
by Cknerr
Just about any of the standard accurizing mods will help. They are thrown together at the factory in away anything will help.
Trigger, bedding, peep sights rather then open sights, any barrel mod.....all will help. You really can get some big improvements. If you do most of the work, it might be affordable. To get all these improvements via a gunsmith will cost more then the gun did to ...
Started 6 days, 13 hours ago (2009-11-22 18:26:00)
by olchevy
Awesome! my question is, is there a way to get rid of deeper pitting?I have my 3030 like that one, polished to the point I still have yet to see any rust months later,but I still have some pretty deep pits, that I dont see how i could get rid of them without removing a ton of metal.
and also did you get my PM?
Started 2 months ago (2009-09-27 17:37:00)
by chasenfate
Try Ingleside Gunworks or Oakridge Custom Finishing.
Started 3 weeks, 1 day ago (2009-11-06 09:46:00)
by quackertackr
There are several schools that offer gunsmithing. There is a lot to learn to be proficient. The equipment can be bought fairly cheap in todays economy, but will still cost several thousands of dollars. I would research extensively before jumping into this full time. Experience is what makes money.
Started 1 week, 5 days ago (2009-11-16 10:48:00)
by HandgunHTR
Any shop with a gunsmith should offer cleaning services. Probably not the most economical solution, but it sounds like he might not have a choice.
Started 3 days, 12 hours ago (2009-11-25 19:18:00)
by seaweaver
ummm I've had no problem w/ mine..yet. I would think that mech is simple and he should fix it. Catch him w/ a bunch of customers in store. A Fix is a fix...not something else.
worst come to worst you can find one in a pawn for $50.
I cannot believe how accurate mine is w/ a slug and the boy is out shooting marsh hens against me.
cw
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Hot threads for last week on Gunsmithing Discussion and Tips::
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-19 09:24:00)
by Patchpusher
290 degrees is the temperature that the salt solution must be to blue steel. The parts are hung on wires or put in baskets and lowered into the bluing solution. They are left in the solution for around 20 minutes. If you get the bluing salts on you you will get two kinds of burns, one from the heat and a caustic chemical burn. The furnace bluing is called Carbona blue. There are only a couple of ...
Started 4 days, 15 hours ago (2009-11-24 16:29:00)
by EMC-GUN
Traditionally speaking bluing and parkerizing is for carbon steel finishes. Stainless is a whole different animal. You can do a bake on finish though.
Started 5 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-23 12:19:00)
by EMC-GUN
First give the bore a good wet patching of Hoppes No.9 or Kroil (even better). Wait a few minutes. Then take a 40 cal. bore brush and wrap it in 0000 steel wool and have a go at it! It should all come out nice and shiny.
Started 2 months, 1 week ago (2009-09-20 19:27:00)
by Lead Poison
Eezox has no equal!
I use it as lubricant/protectant on all my firearms.
http://www.eezox.com/
http://www.eezox.com/faqs.html
Started 6 days, 13 hours ago (2009-11-22 18:26:00)
by olchevy
Awesome! my question is, is there a way to get rid of deeper pitting?I have my 3030 like that one, polished to the point I still have yet to see any rust months later,but I still have some pretty deep pits, that I dont see how i could get rid of them without removing a ton of metal.
and also did you get my PM?
Started 4 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-24 13:23:00)
by ChuckyBoy
Try Numrich in New York or Bob's.
Started 2 days, 22 hours ago (2009-11-26 09:18:00)
by Cknerr
Just about any of the standard accurizing mods will help. They are thrown together at the factory in away anything will help.
Trigger, bedding, peep sights rather then open sights, any barrel mod.....all will help. You really can get some big improvements. If you do most of the work, it might be affordable. To get all these improvements via a gunsmith will cost more then the gun did to ...
Started 6 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-22 17:14:00)
by chris arrington
Get in touch with Weagle. He enjoys working on Mausers.
Started 5 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-24 06:23:00)
by dhepler
I do them. Give me a shout.
Started 1 week, 5 days ago (2009-11-16 21:31:00)
by ScottD
how about this one?
its a 5.5oz weight - out past the muzzle - brass sleeve with a rubber core on a threaded aluminum barrel attachment.
shot a teen agg with it Saturday 5 groups averaged .1965
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