GT40 Tech - Chassis,Brakes,Tires,&Wheels | Forum profile

hi, thanks to everyone for their help.... Brett Im not really knowledgable on rivets...would it be best to use stainless steel rivets ?? mick

Mick, Its the type of rivet. See the picture, blind rivets can leak. Here is a link to show more examples: http://www.npfasteners.com/sealed-rivets.shtml

Well work got in the way again! What's a guy to do? I have been unable to get back to the car since I last posted. In the meantime however, I have purchased a pair of rose-jointed track rod ends to replace the standard ball joint jobbies, so these should help with fine-tuning the adjustments, (plus they look way cool!!!) Hopefully I will have something to report before the weekend! Thanks in the meantime for all the kind feedback, both...

Im still in the planning/fund raising/getting permission from the misses stage but im planning on using either JC11 Celloseal or Duralac jointing compound. Both will protect against dissimilar metal corrosion and should give you some protection from water getting in through the floor pan aswell. You could also use PRC 1750 but its mainly used for fillet seals and weather seals.

Thanks for the feedback. So I think it should be the 215/60-R15. Correct? BTWIf I would go for the Michelin, what would be the correct size there (front & rear)? Regards, Andreas

If you go with Michelin, it would be 225/50-15 front, and 295/50-15 rear. If you go with Avon's you will find that the 215/60-15 will put your car at a different height setting on the front of the car, my cars noise is closer to the ground now than before with the 225/50-15. I need to adjust the height and camber, toe settings on the front again.

Mark: From your readings it looks like your rack is still a bit on the low side, or your tie rod is too long. If your tie rods are level I would try raising the rack slightly with shims of a known thickness, and if you can, move the tie rod up at the upright also. Not seeing your suspension layout I would also say check alignment of the inner rack pivot with your inner upper and lower wishbone mounts. I looks like your tie rod is swinging in...

you might find it easier if you chart your movements. if when you chart your readings you get an "S" looking curve ( toe in through toe out, or vice versa. ) it is an indication to start looking at rack or tie rod length or both. If those lengths are right then you will get either no bump steer or toe through toe, or opposite toe out etc. this will mean that the rack position is in need of adjustment. This is my understanding.

I wrote an article for KitCar magazine last year on bump steer but i can't find the article on line. Basically you don't want more than 0.020 of movement per inch of travel. Here is the data on my car. This is very difficult due to the short control arms. Toe out is more stable and will allow for more control during turn in. You would never want to cross neutral. For example, you wouldn't want to set up for toe in then under...

Jarno.I,m building a mid-engined self built project using Willwood pedal box & discs..6 piston fr. & 4piston r.with twin master cylinders. If you would like to see my set-up I will have the car in her new home in Leiden by Kerst.Eddie.