240SX (S13,S14,S15) - Advanced | Forum profile

Ground control is pretty expensive considering its just a spring with a different spring perch. If i get koni yellows, does that require me to have different spring perch's?? Otherwise i see absolutely no reason for GC because i know of numerous companies that will give me custom spring rates. Swift makes a quality product, but i was leaning towards RSR since its cheap and is relatively as stiff as i need.

Car worrrrrkkkkssss. Turns out it was just ceased up. I did some roll starts and threw it into gear, now it goes into gear like butter

Yeah, i suspected that much after learning they were rated for 7500. Always thaugh they were good for 8000, but no antilag. Anyway's the TYPE B, are rated for 8000, wich seems kind of low. I talked to TOMEI, and they say there racing teams rev it up to 9500 on there solid lifter setup and TYPE B's, but has also stated that these are racing engines, that get rebuilt frequently.... In other words - if you go beyond 8000 - its at your...

Thanks for the explanation but as far as I can tell from the FSM, the grounds for the shielding (F26 and F37) are only on the intake manifold, and the FSM repeatedly warns against grounding with the ECU when testing voltage at idle- supposed to be 2.5V but I haven't tried to measure this voltage yet.

Thanks Codyace. In regards to EH'ing a stainless manifold.....I have had a 6Boost steam pipe manifold extrude honed here in Australia. I never actually fitted it (blame Full-Race for that Lol).....but on the flow bench only moderate cfm flow improvements were made. Unlike the stock s15 intake manifold where significant flow gains were made (up to 50cfm per runner).

I agree with you James, beneath 8000 is still HLA land. Just as a note, i know of a guy who broke a wrist pin on his wiseco pistons, though it was on a CA18DET. As of what I can recall, it actually broke on the dyno while making some 460whp, if that's relevant.

The shielding reduced electromagnetic and radio interference, reduces noise on the knock sensor signal. If the ground to the shield is broken, it MIGHT be letting in noise from the ignition coils in, and make the ECU think it's knocking. Somewhat unlikely, but worth checking. The shield should only be grounded near the ECU, no where else (they only work if it's an open ended grounding). Maybe check the surface where the sensor bolts...

"I am not planing on going much past 8000 RPM" I'm not sure I would change to solids then, but I've never had an issue with thrown rockers. If I had a stock head and could do it all over again I might look more closely at the VE head, but at the time I had some really nice expensive head work fro headgames so I went the solid route. -James

I had the same problem, and mine ended up being a defective pressure plate. You can look to make sure your clutch fork isn't bent, and that the pivot isn't broken. Can you go into gear by pumping the pedal... if so maybe check you master cylinder for leaks.

Pull the rail off of the intake manifold, but leave EVERYTHING else hooked up. Set it up so the injectors will spray into a box or something. Have someone crank it over and watch for fuel spray out of all 4 injectors.