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24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for 24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain on http://www.dieseltruckresource.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: 24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain, located on the Message Board at http://www.dieseltruckresource.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain" on the Message Board at http://www.dieseltruckresource.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on 24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain:
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Week
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Month
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3 Months
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Threads:
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94
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389
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1,162
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Post:
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248
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1,009
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2,973
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24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
More auto trans problems
Published (2009-11-22 21:57:00)
The typical issue with not shifting down into low at stop is the governor pressure solenoid(round thingie hanngind down on VB.) The governor pressure transducer(sensor is the black odd shaped item on the same part as solenoid. It is a good bet the parts are bad. Hope you haven't burn the tranny up trying to do second or third gear starts. Both these items are recomended replacement at same time as problematic to determine which in some...
user's latest post:
99 Crank, Long Start after Fuel...
Published (2009-11-22 10:23:00)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...fA ccessories If anyone has had the tank apart.. is this what the inards look like? Should I just try to win this then given it looks like what I think an updated plastic fitting type would be...
user's latest post:
Are MOOG the only problematical...
Published (2009-11-21 08:35:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by Doj Dewd overgreasing is not good. the grease boots are supposed to keep the grease in and dirt out. break the seal and it allows the grease to escape as well as get dirty inside. i have the same bad habit - i tend to always have grease seeping out of the boots . . . I don't normally "overgrease". I just wanted to see if anything would help, even if it is just temporary. Since it did seem to...
user's latest post:
High idle after using cruise on...
Published (2009-11-20 13:42:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by rebal mine will go up 100-150 after a long run on CC. its sorta strange but has not left me stranded I dont know if its in need of a reflash or what, but I wont take my truck back to the dealer for nothing. my truck is not stock anymore. thanks rebal. I won't worry too much about this since the truck runs good otherwise. Ted
user's latest post:
truck stoped
Published (2009-11-19 05:25:00)
give us some more info. just stopped no power nothing. do you have fuel pressure. do you have a gauge. etc. you cant cycle to get codes but if you know anyone with a reader this will help. IMO if you do need to replace your injection pump go with what it is suppose to have. does it crank and just not fire or no crankie at all.
user's latest post:
Runs too cold.
Published (2009-11-22 21:17:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by jrv15 ok im scared now... my truck usually runs just above the 145 mark all the time. is this bad????? throw a new thermostat in and all should be golden, usually if they run cols the thermostats opens too soon, engine is more efficent when up in the 180-190 range. mine runs 190+ all the time except in extreme cold temps does it cool down,
user's latest post:
Exhaust manifold, how long until...
Published (2009-11-23 22:18:00)
I have over 200K miles on mine with no problem. IF it does end up cracking it will just be the exhaust manifold that cracks.
user's latest post:
Are MOOG the only problematical...
Published (2009-11-20 10:50:00)
Check the steering shaft for play. Also check the steering box again. Alignment shops aren't all competent so don't assume you're aligned just yet. To check the ball joints for yourself jack up the front end and get a steel bar or 2x6 under the tire and get a buddy to lift it up and down while you watch teh lower ball joint. It shouldn't move more than a very slight amount in any direction. There is probaly a wear ring at...
user's latest post:
99 Crank, Long Start after Fuel...
Published (2009-11-18 20:35:00)
It it's the OEM vp then that is a possiblility, check for codes even if no CEL. Have you tried without the fuel cap on again? If after running engine you pull the cap and it sucks in air then the tank vent is a likely source.
user's latest post:
Exhaust manifold, how long until...
Published (2009-11-24 09:08:00)
I will get some pictures up asap. I was concerned that if it shrinks too much, it might crack the block. Good to know it won't!
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Latest active threads on 24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain::
Started 4 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-23 23:35:00)
by Nick02Ram
It's possible. Best way to check springs is look at the shackle and see how
far past vertical they are. If they are pointing back real bad, chances are
the spring is shot.
Started 4 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-23 22:18:00)
by lovinCTD59
I have over 200K miles on mine with no problem. IF it does end up cracking it will just be the exhaust manifold that cracks.
Started 4 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-23 23:44:00)
by txarrowhunter
I just had a u joint from the driveshaft go out and the end caps where
making a pretty constant whistle.
Started 4 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-23 15:04:00)
by cmac
most of the time it is the relay for the grid heater. mine was on the inner
fender, but i hear tell there is another one somewhere. mine stayed on so i
just un-hooked them.
Started 5 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-22 22:53:00)
by Dinner
Best spot is to install the probe in the hot line leading to the transmission cooler.
Started 6 days, 3 hours ago (2009-11-21 21:36:00)
by dozer12216
Believe you have extracted all the life out of tranny and i's on borrowed time. Hopefully just enough for it to get to reputable tranny shop on it's own.
Have you checked the tranny fluid in last six months??
Started 2 weeks, 3 days ago (2009-11-10 12:14:00)
by klx650a2
Do you have your radiator blocked off? Yes, these trucks run cold when not worked. When I had my 2000, I ended up replacing the thermostat. If you do that, only buy a original Cummins part, expensive but they work.
Started 6 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-21 23:25:00)
by dozer12216
Started 3 weeks, 1 day ago (2009-11-05 21:53:00)
by lovinCTD59
There is no need ro remove the diff cover, just the axle shaft/bolts, and the spindle nut. I have reused my outer axle seals 2x now with no problems. You may wanna replace the wheel seals however when you have it apart...
BTW RTV is fine for the diff cover...
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Hot threads for last week on 24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain::
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-20 14:33:00)
by Ruralmedic
I've adjusted mine once, and they were all within tolerance when checked.
It's a fairly easy job. With the machinist yet in me, I simply adjusted
them to the middle of the tolerance specs as long as I was at it.
Started 1 week, 3 days ago (2009-11-18 00:54:00)
by nickg
easy to check your ball joints, jack up truck, stick a pry bar inbetween the U-joint(axel) and the lower ball joint and pry up if more than 50thou play its worn beyond spec. or if lateral play exists(grasp top and bottom of wheel and pull/push if it moves BJ or wheel bearing is shot)
I dont think the ball joints is the route of your bad steering, how much weight did you have in the bed? or ...
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-20 17:49:00)
by farmall99
I just had same thing. I than put in a set of optima's, problem solved!
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-20 19:52:00)
by duster75
go with synthetic.. as far as draining I've heard of turkey basters or the
way I'm going to do mine (found method here) take low pressure hose off
place in bucket start truck and drain and refill till it comes out clean
put hose back on and top off..... you will need a helper to do this turn
steering wheel back and forth ect. Nate
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-20 16:46:00)
by larrybartlett
I love my Toyo HT's, almost no weight to balance
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-19 05:25:00)
by DIESELWRKS
give us some more info. just stopped no power nothing. do you have fuel
pressure. do you have a gauge. etc. you cant cycle to get codes but if you
know anyone with a reader this will help. IMO if you do need to replace
your injection pump go with what it is suppose to have. does it crank and
just not fire or no crankie at all.
Started 1 week, 3 days ago (2009-11-17 21:03:00)
by Copenhagenjunkie
I believe there should be a small round filter/vent, like what is on the end of the differential vent tubes. It's a one way valve that will close if you roll over but stays open to allow air in when on all 4's or 6's if dually.
I could be way off on this though............
I remember, the one way valve is in the plastic piece that sticks out. I somewhat remember many moons ago that ...
Started 4 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-23 15:04:00)
by cmac
most of the time it is the relay for the grid heater. mine was on the inner
fender, but i hear tell there is another one somewhere. mine stayed on so i
just un-hooked them.
Started 4 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-23 22:18:00)
by lovinCTD59
I have over 200K miles on mine with no problem. IF it does end up cracking it will just be the exhaust manifold that cracks.
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-19 16:05:00)
by Tate
Wash the engine to get rid of any residual fuel. With the head clean and dry, it will be easier to see fuel leaking from the lines. The o-rings on the connector tubes could leak, but you will see fuel coming out of the head connection. I wouldn't go replacing them if there isn't a leak there. Make sure to check the return line connection at the back of the head. Also check the connections in...
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